How much for lifters - 2009 Ford F-150

Ok here is the deal, the lifters are poorly designed and prone to noise or "tick", the way to silence this is not just new lifters but new rocker arm assemblies which include new lifters. Use the best parts not the cheapest ones, factory new one are improved from previous designs. If you still want to just replace the lifters you must take the rockers to a machine shop and have the lifters pressed out and replaced by them. Another suggestion is if you live in a warm climate use 10W-30W synthetic oil.

There is a special tool called a lifter puller. It has 2 tangs on the bottom of the tool and when the handle is squeezed it grasps the lifter. Very helpful when lifter bores are gummed up to remove stubborn lifters.May be able to get from Napa

You can't do this, the system is set up for hydraulic as far as the fuel injection control modules programming goes, also how would you adjust them, there is no provision for that on the engine you have.

Way too much to spend on a 19 year old car

Inspect/Test/Service/Replace Hydraulic lifters can fail for several reasons:

• Dirt lodged in the check valve can allow the lifter to leak. Too much wear between the lifter and the body can cause excessive leak-down. This results in a noisy lifter.
• A lifter might be noisy because of an oil pressure problem.

NOTE An oil pressure problem will be evident on hollow pushrod engines if no oil is reaching the rocker arms.

• A lifter can become stuck because of varnish that accumulates between its plunger and body due to a lack of periodic oil changes.
• A stuck lifter can sometimes be freed up by the addition of an additive to the oil, or by spraying fuel system spray cleaner down a hollow pushrod oil channel.
• Lifters that stick because of varnish buildup can sometimes be loosened up by squirting carburetor spray cleaner down the hollow pushrod lubricating channel, where it contacts the rocker arm.

Hydraulic lifters are not rebuilt because they are relatively inexpensive. It is possible to disassemble and clean lifters but they must be reassembled with their mated parts. Because of the labor time involved, this procedure is usually impractical.
Sometimes a piece of foreign material becomes lodged in the lifter check valve. If the lifter is removed and disassembled before serious wear between the lifter and cam lobe results, it may be cleaned.
Worn mechanical (solid) lifters can be reground.

• The base of the lifter is ground to a radius on a special lifter grinder.
• Roller lifters have a longer service life than standard lifters.
• Wear can occur on the roller pin. Some of these pins are serviceable.

It might occasionally be necessary to disassemble a hydraulic lifter to clean it or to inspect it.

• If this is necessary, disassemble one lifter at a time and pay attention to the order of the check valve assembly.
• Lifter disassembly is done by pressing down on the pushrod seat with your thumb and using a screwdriver to remove the snap ring.
• Remove the plunger from the body; this may require tapping the body.
• Next, remove the check valve assembly.
• After thoroughly cleaning the lifter components in solvent, visually inspect them for signs of wear.
• If the internal components pass inspection, the lifter can be reassembled.
• During reassembly, cleanliness of the parts is of utmost importance.

Hydraulic Lifters REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4.8L Engines

1. Remove the rocker cover.
2. Remove the engine side cover.
3. Back off the rocker arm adjusting nuts and remove the pushrods. Keep them in order for installation.
4. Reaching through the side cover opening, lift out the hydraulic lifters. If your are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available form most auto parts stores.
   
5. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set. To install:
   
6. Install and coat each lifter with engine oil supplement.
7. Install the remaining components by reversing the removal procedure.
8. Once installation is complete, adjust the valves as described in the valve lash procedure. Fig. 1: Stuck lifters must be freed using a slide hammer type lifter removal tool
   

4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L And 7.4L Engines

1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Remove the intake manifold.
3. Back off the rocker arm adjusting nuts and remove the pushrods. Keep them in order for installation.
4. Remove the lifter retainer bolts, retainer and restrictor.
5. Remove the lifters. If your are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available from most auto parts stores.
6. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set.
7. Coat each lifter with engine oil supplement prior to installation. Tighten the retainer bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm). Adjust the valves as described in the valve lash procedure.

6.2L And 6.5L Diesel Engines Fig. 2: Diesel engine valve lifter

1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Remove the rocker arm shaft, rocker arms and pushrods. Keep all parts in order and properly identified for installation.
3. Remove the clamps and lifter guide plates.
4. Remove the lifters by reaching through the access holes in the cylinder head with a magnetic lifter tool. If you are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available form most auto parts stores. To install:
   
5. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set. NOTE: Some engines will have both standard and 0.010 in. (.0039mm) oversize lifters. The oversized lifters will have "10'' etched into the side. The block will be stamped "OS'' on the cast pad next to the lifter bore. and on the top rail of the crankcase above the lifter bore. WARNING
   New lifters must be primed before installation. Damage to the lifters and engine will result if new lifters are installed dry!
   
6. Prime new lifters by immersing them in clean kerosene, engine oil or diesel fuel and working the lifter plunger while the unit is submerged.
7. Prior to installation, coat the lifter roller with engine oil supplement. Re-used lifters must be installed in their original positions!
8. Install the lifters.
9. Install the guide plates and clamps. Tighten the clamp bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
10. After all the clamps are installed, turn the crankshaft by hand, 2 full turns (720°) to ensure free movement of the lifters in the guide plates. If the crankshaft won't turn, one or more lifters may be jamming in the guide plates.
11. The remainder of assembly the reverse of disassembly.

The 1.6 has hydraulic non adjustable lifters and that lifter tick has been a thorn in their side ever since the 1.6's inception.
The way to eliminate the noise is of course replace the lifter/lifters use a cam lube on the lifters bottom and let the new lifters soak in an oil can overnight.
Check for bent push rods when you have it opened up, R&R valve cover,R&R rockers R&R pushrods, Remove and Replace the lifters.

Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.

1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
   
2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
   
3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
   
4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
   
5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.
   

Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...



... then remove the anti-rotation brackets



The lifters are located in bores in the engine block



Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube

1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
   

Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.

1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
   
2. Install the cylinder head.
   
3. Install the rocker arm cover.
   

Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

Most of the vortecs that i have worked on have hydraulic roller lifters, but i cant say for certain that your engine does, however i am sure that it has hydraulic lifters and they can be checked by trying to push them down in the center where the pushrods contact, if they compress easily the lifter is bad, If they are roller lifters, check for any wear on the roller and how well they turn, it is ok to have some side to side movement on the pin but any up/down movement on the roller is bad. If the are non-roller lifters check for wear, if the lifter looks "dished" or "concaved" rather than having flat surface replace the lifter.

WELL NOISEY LIFTERS CAUSED BY DIRT TRAPPED INSIDE THE LIFTERS OR NOT DOING OIL CHANGE OIL IS DIRTY.LOW OIL PRESSURE CAUSES LIFTER NOISES.WORN LIFTERS ALSO CAN CAUSE NOISEY LIFTERS.