5.0 with 8 thousand miles. In the last 2 weeks i've replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new cold air intake, egr solenoid, catalytic converters, and checked coil for proper voltage. last month i replaced brakes so i know that cant be dragging the truck. i don't know what else to check
SOURCE: Recently replaced my fuel pump,
you might try checking the catalytic converter.. it could be clogged... not letting the engine breathe like it needs to
SOURCE: 1989 ford f150 w/ 5.0 liter..... engine light on
I would check the oil pressure of the engine. The reason is the timing chain tensioners are run with oil pressrue. I think your timing chain tensioners are leaking down when engine is getting to operating tempature . The oil is thinning down as warms up , as it should to lubercate . I would check compression and do a cylinder leak down test on all the cylinders. Then if the compression is good and the cylinder leak down is good. I would change all the timing components, ( chain, timing gears, timing chain tensioners )
Good Luck , I hope this helps.
SOURCE: 1992 Ford Bronco 5.0L fuel problems (problems)
First one problem at a time then move to the next after one is fixed focus.
Blue or gray is the question? if it is blue it's oil, you didn't mention if it is a blast of smoke when you gun it or does it smoke all the time? is it black smoke ? overfuel problem ? is this why you asked about the Inertia switch?can't read your mind. It's just throwing in an issue you don't need to deal with, it only stops fuel in a collision or tire blow out it would not run period. The bumping noise can be the shock or struts banging around or the nuts loose, Strut tower bearing bad. Check the bushings o the control arms and anti sway bars, Ford uses different names but look at all the rubber front and rear, try moving things around with your hands. top bottom one side then the next do in a logical way start at one point figure it out move to the next possiblity.
On the driver side you have a stuck caliper or warped cylinder so pull apart and rebuild or buy a rebuilt caliper pre loaded, if you don't know how to check them then I suggest you buy a pre loaded caliper, did you lube the rails on the caliper moves on? did you test them for free movement? Replace the rotor it will be toast. Also check the Differential if it has free play in the shaft, Jack up the wheel and move the wheel back and forth with the transmission in netural and wheels blocked if you have more than 1/4 of a turn on the pinion bearing then you will need to shim the rear end pinion gear, or replace the crush bearing, But only if you know how to set up a rear end. Otherwise take it to someone who knows what they are doing, or take a class at local community college to learn this stuff, it harder to trouble shoot some of this stuff over the net, You could buy a book for bakes and other areas you need help with. I just gave you a few answers but need to ask many more questions to give you really good answers. Can't read your mind nor see with your eyes don't know what you have done and what you have not done.
SOURCE: MY Ford F-150 cranks but will not start. Check
Are you sure the spark is sufficient? I have seen weak coils cause your problem also bad coil wires loosing to much voltage to the distributor.
SOURCE: Ford F150 engine backfiring, running/idling rough
I Have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 that back fires and is just running really ruff when idling alot of nack fire a sord of like a pulse going on what is my problem?
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