Chassie number removed big hole were it should be

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helped me repair it within an hour, all by myself!!!! It's amazing, no hassle at all
From wiring diagrams, schematic illustrations, spark plugs info, parts info, chassis number, valvetime settings, step wise instructions, torque specs, error/fault codes, engine info, to every single minute parts, you get everything in there you can't imagine how detailed it is

Yes, this is normal. The big wheel you are seeing is called the flywheel. The teeth that you can see are what the starter motor engage to turn the motor over. The hole is simply an inspection hole. From the factory there would have been a rubber plug in the hole, but if it has gone missing it is no worry.

Look in the hole and see if there is a slot ir a bar . Put in a screwdriver and turn if a slot or get a pair of long nose pliers and turn the bar.

Porbably the radiator cooling fan relay switch is bad; check it; this is located behind the bumper on the passenger side underneath the headlight.

There are two ways of accessing it: * Remove the bumper.
* Remove the pasenger side headlight assembly and cut a hole in the plastic underneatch click on the link below for more info: WJ site - Cooling Relay

The relay seems to be a common replacement item for this vehicle. One cause of the failure is that the relay overheats, per a note inserted in the replacement part packaging.

The cutout method is used by dealers. In one vehicle, the relay failed again after 40,000 miles or so. While replacing the relay it was noted that it was secured by one screw and it was not tight. This did not provide thermal contact with the chassis which helps cool the relay. The cause of the second failure was likely due to improper installation. Trying to work through a cutout would seem to make it difficult to get both screw isntalled securely. Furthermore, the new parts today use steel pop rivets for installation to help guarantee it will maintain proper thermal contact with the chassis. The pop rivets cannot be isntalled without removing the bumper.

It is not difficult to remove the bumper and grill to get to the relay. It sounds like a big deal but you are talking a half dozen screws and less than a dozen plastic rivets. The act of cutting a hole and working in cramped quarters has to be more difficult and it does not provide as quality a job.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

You need to check under the car for rust holes in the chassis or up under the door sills or wheel wells. Its that or a chassis seal is gone.

engine mounting or geargox mounting ,need car up on four poster with a crow bar to check it though

Digital Audio Compact Disc Player


Section 15-01: Radio, Tape Chassis and Digital Audio Compact Disc Player 1996 Probe Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Compact Disc Player, Digital Audio SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Radio Removing Tool T87P-19061-A
Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the instrument panel finish panel (044D70). Refer to Section 01-12 for the removal procedure.
   

1. Insert the Radio Removing Tool T87P-19061-A into the face plate holes until the tension of the tool locking into place can be felt. (There are tension clips that this tool pushes out of the way so the radio can pull out. Maybe you can insert 4 pins that will do the same thing.)
   

1. Flex outward on both sides of the radio chassis (18806) simultaneously and pull the radio chassis from the instrument panel (04320) using the tool as handles.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the radio antenna lead in cable (18812) from the radio chassis.
   

hi best advice is to look at how the mounting is secured to chassis and usually a steel bracket which securec to engine ? if so then i would support engine under neath with hydraulic trolly jack and block thenundo the chassis mounting bolts/nuts ? then just gently lift engine slightly enough to take weight off mounting ? then if you remove bolts from bracket to engine fixing so the mounting will remove complete with bracket and mounting block after raising engine again to ease removal then renew mount block to bracket but do not tighten bolts/nuts untill you have repositioned into place again on engine then resecure bracket to engine 1st this will leave a little movement on mount as you lower engine down again and locate bolt holes? hope this helps not too difficult diy iob just have a little patience