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The tapping is the valves hitting against the buyer upper part of engine. The stalling is most likely the computer shutting down engine. You might have engine damage. The tapping comes and goes according to engine rpm the higher the rpm the louder the tapping. If I was have it towed to u mechanic and have them run test engine might be beyond repair
It has developed a clicking engine noise on a cold start. After the car has warmed up, the sound goes away. ... Clicking or a sharp tapping from the valve cover on top of the engine would point to a valve train noise. A dull tapping or slapping sound from the side of the engine block would point more toward piston slap.4 Nov 2011
Hard to say over the internet but I will try to explain. If the noise is a distict KNOCK KNOCK and it sounds like it is coming from the bottom of the engine, then it most likely is a rod or main bearing. If it is a TAP TAP noise that sounds like it's coming from the top of the engine, then most likely a valve lifer is failing/failed.
the fact that it goes away when the car is warm, makes me lean towards a bad lifter. Normaly if a bearing is bad and knocking, the noise doesn't go away.
The KNOCK noise will be somewhat hollow sounding and the TAP TAP sound will be more solid. If the KNOCK KNOCK is solid, then a rod or main bearing has most likely failed to the point that a new/reman engine will be needed.
Please check to see if the slapping noise is from the belts, the idler , the water pump or alternator. Also check if this is the tappets or the valves, if so this might require a check up after removing the valve door covers. Check for oil pump pressure and also for settings of the valves.
If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..
That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.
The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).
There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.
A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).
2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.
If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).
If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.
A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.
Most likely cause is a hydralic tappet. Mits are well know for top end noise. Note we are talking about a tapping or clicking sound not a knock. You can try using an engine flush product if the noise is getting bad and then changing your oil. Generally if the oil is not changed regularily eventually the tapping noise gets happens.