1998 dodge how to bleed the master cylinder while its on the vehicle

You can bleed the system all you want and STILL have the pedal go to floor unless the master cylinder was bench bled in a vice BEFORE it was put on the vehicle. ALWAYS bench bleed a master cylinder before you put it in service. If you don't, you'll never get the pedal off the floor.

Still air in system, sounds like the master cylinder has ran dry during the bleeding process, pumping more air into system. The lines running to the rear brakes are long, so you must bleed the fluid out the bleed screw in the rear 10+ times each side. Bleed, bleed, and bleed some more, keep bleeding untill that pedal feels good.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

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For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.

sorry you went thru all of that... those vehicles have an issue with power brake boosters. one more thing to replace...Or, you still have air in the system...

Re-bleed the system starting at the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master cylinder.

Make sure that you use a bleed tube (Small rubber hose with a **** and a stopper in one end which goes under the fluid in the bleed out bottle ) so that all air is expelled.

Do not use the same fluid that you have pumped out to top the master cylinder up

It is full of small air bubbles and will need to stand for a few days for them to escape

2 choices / flush the brake system and bleed it or cut hole in floor and use feet to stop just like in the flintstones . (flush/bleed/and test for leaking wheel cylinders and master cylinder)

Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.

You cant bleed the ABS,this is your anti lock brake system,try to bleed them again,then check your power brake booster,check for loose vacuum hoses.