650 dual pump holley carb 4 barrel

Maybe the float is stuck or needs adjustment? Maybe a carb kit?
Holley has their own web site, at the bottom of page there is technical resources--library. I just briefly took a look, holley.com

How many rpm's is it running at when you first start it up and it is running on the choke? Does it gradually start to idle back and then start to die r does it do it all of a sudden and dies?

When running with the choke on, it is on the high idle circuit of the carb, as it warms up the idle should slow down and then idle in the 800 rpm range in Park, 650 in Drive. This will be the low idle circuit range. This transition inside the carb will cover an idle air bleed hole in the venturi of the carb and lean out the mixture. If you notice that the carb smells gassy and black rich unburnt gases are coming from the tailpipe, the problem is located within the carb and requires a carb tech to do a rebuild of the carb. You could try a good carb cleaner like Lucas by putting it into the gas tank, in case you just got a bad tank of gas, but that is just a bandaid for a more deeply rooted problem. Get the carb rebuilt?

Please watch the Holley instructional video on the replacing of th epump in any Holley series 4 barrel.
Click HERE

The mixture screws are at the bottom front of the 2 front barrels. They poke into the barrels from outside the carb.
Butterfly usually refers top the throttle plates that open and close the barrels, but if you have a quadrajet, they may also refer to the upper plates on the back 2 barrels that only open when the throttle is wide open.
The float level is the distance of the top of the float when the float valve is closed. As gas flows into the bowl thru the float valve, the float rises and eventually closes when the proper float level is reached by the gas.

Look here for example: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R8339.pdf

Electric fuel pump most likely has too much pressure for the carb. AFAIK, the Holley 4150/60 & 4165/75 should each demand the usual 4.7-5.3 PSI (4.7 @ idle, 5.3 @ max RPMs), so even the Holley red pump would need some restriction from a regulator. If you want this to be adjusted to its best efficiency, you need to have a fuel pressure gauge installed temporarily, if not on the regulator like I have on my Scout II. FWIW, the regulator I have installed is the Mallory 4307M from CenturyPerformance.com, Summitracing.com, Jegs.com, etc.

http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/4307M.pdf

A bad Needle & Seat will do this also, or debris stuck between the Needle and the Seat. This is where light tapping on the bowl helps, but it's best to run the fuel out of the bowl a few times and then the volume flow, or quick filling of the bowl, should loosen up the debris.

You also could have set he fuel float too high. What model carb, the ones I mentioned above (AKA Holley Modular Carbs)? If so, then Holley's site has a tech center & instructions on setting the float(s). www.holley.com

Set the floats carefully and slowly/gradually. Make sure the lock screw is always loose enough before turning the adjustment nut. If you strip out the bowl's threads on an older carb, you'll beat hell finding a replacement. 1/12 turn = 1/32" of fuel height IIRC. You set the fuel level, with pump running (wrap a rag around the carb so gas doesn't leak onto the manifold!!!) so the fuel is just starting to dip out of the "peep-hole" in the side of the float. Removal of the peep/seep-hole screw/plug is necessary first. Clockwise rotation of the nut lowers fuel level IIRC and counter raises fuel level. Again, please check their website. Most people get discouraged when dealing with the Holley Modular Carbs, but they are the simplest and the best carbs on the market. Even if 30+ years old.

you are not going to find a vacuum diagram for a holley. the line on rt side of carb is ported vacuum for distibutor advance. and the lower bigger port is for pcv valve.

the ones one the very front at the bottom

Most likely you have a Holley carb. You may have a 460 engine. If you have the carb with a big vacuum pot in front of the carb, then you have a RPM governor. The RPM governor will work against the 4 barrel.

The main mixture for the idle jets can be adjusted like any old style carb. You may have plastic caps over the idle screws but take them off. Then use a vacuum gauge on any intake fitting and proceed to read the vacuum level as you turn the mixture screws. You want the mixture to reach a maximum RPM, then evenly turn the screw in until the RPM drops slighty and then balance for smoothest idle.

After this step adjust curb idle and see if this helps when the 4 barrel kicks in. Holley has different springs for the vacuum actuated secondaries and they are color coded. If the carb is original it should be right, but if the carb is of unknown origin you can check the proper vacuum spring, main jet, power valve and so on in a good Holley book. The mechanical secondaries are also listed with clearances to hand adjust.

By adjusting the mixture screws you have set the engine to idle just below peak vacuum pressure. This means you should have more vacuum to work the secondaries.

In the late 70's they mandated that the adjustment screws be capped over. If they haven't been exposed, there will be two plugs covering them on the baseplate. Air adjustment screws are always somewhere on the base of all carbs with the only exception being on Holley 4bbl carbs used on performance engines (definitely not yours)

http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R9881.pdf
This should help you