Failed inspection=not ready Monitor EVAP and Monitor secondary Air

You can go to most auto parts stores AutoZone advance Auto Napa and they will read the codes but before you do that disconnect the battery cables and clear the codes that are already set so the check engine light shuts off then drive around 15 miles or so to give the computer enough time to set new codes when the check engine light comes on after the 15 miles now go for the code scan and any codes will be new and it's easier to find your problem and no old codes will be present which might've been fixed already but the keep alive memory is still storing the old codes also you will never pass inspection with the check engine light on and don't think you can pass inspection with the light off after clearing the codes there are monitors for the ecm that have to do there self check before the system is inspection ready and if they are not ready you will fail the inspection and still have to pay it can take as much as 80 miles driving or more and the gas tank should be between 1/4 & 3/4 full for the evap monitor to clear the self test in some cases it will take a few days for that monitor to clear the self test and the car will be ready for inspection the evap test is the last monitor to clear the self test and until it does you will not pass inspection you can look up the drive cycle info for the sequence to follow after all repairs are completed and a code 1000 is present telling the inspection computer that your car is system ready otherwise you will keep paying the fees and failing the test good luck this is the right info here I'm a taxi mechanic in NYC with 50+years of experience and you can count on what you are reading as the most important information you can get about this for you and anybody else who reads this thread this is 1 million percent correct and authentic good luck again Stephen

Did you recently clear the trouble codes or disconnect the battery? Once all codes are cleared, the computer will not display systems 'ready' until they go through an evaluation cycle. Some of the systems require a certain number of drive cycles before they will display 'ready'. A drive cycle is usually starting the engine from a cold start (based on coolant temperature) and driving until certain conditions are met. I don't know what the requirements are for your car, but my 2003 pickup truck requires more than 10 drive cycles before it will make the O2 sensors and evaporative emissions 'ready'. Most states only require that a certain number of systems are showing 'ready' to pass emissions certification.

Alan, I f you have had battery disconnected or had some one erase codes recently, the computer has to go through what is known as a drive cycle to complete all monitors cycling, some vehicles complete cycle in 10 miles, where as some could take 100 miles or more.
My Toyota EVAP readiness state will not cycle in cold weather and takes thousands of miles before it gets to readiness state.
I think some shops can force systems to run if they have a good scan tool.

You DO NOT go to inspection without either
working on all vehicles or at least use a professional
scanner to see if all 8 monitors have run

If they haven't run or you have a fault code after they run,
you fail inspection

So you get the Evap Codes,diagnose that system & it's components, until you find where a vacuum leak is or what
solenoid failed.

That is best done at a shop with a smoke machine & knowledge

Emission Monitors run on their own every few days

What your referring to is Drive Cycles after certain repairs
have been made

You don't do them either,a shop does before you get the car
back or they are useless & you don't go their,too technical
for you to do & the info has to be looked up

You need a clear piece of roadway with no traffic to to Drive
Cycles

Trouble Code: P0134

HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) No Activity Detected

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine started, engine running in closed loop at a speed over 3 mph for more than 2 minutes, and the PCM detected the HO2S signal stroke rationality was more than the threshold value (0.250 volt) during the Heated Oxygen Sensor Monitor test.

Possible Causes:


HO2S signal circuit is open or shorted to ground.HO2S has deteriorated, is contaminated or has failed.PCM has failed.YOUR HO2S SENSOR IS BAD,IT COST 80.00,USE EXACT FIT PART.EASY TO REMOVE,DISCONNECT ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR,GET WRENCH AND REMOVE.5 MINUTES TO DO.Trouble Code: P0336

Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine running and the PCM detected the number of CKP sensor signals counted (between the reference mark gap). did not equal the Actual number of available teeth (i.e., the CKP signals. were out or the normal window" of operation with the CMP sensor. signals okay).

Possible Causes:


CKP sensor signal circuit connections loose (intermittent fault).CKP sensor wiring harness has a connection fault (intermittent).CKP to Target Wheel "air gap" is incorrect.CKP sensor is damaged or has failed.Must remove to see.Trouble Code: P0440

EVAP System Malfunction

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine started, ECT sensor signal less than158?F at startup, IAT sensor signal more than 9.5?F, system voltage over 10.0 volts engine runtime 15-20 minutes at cruise speed, then returned to idle speed, VSS indicating 0 mph, load value 2.2 ms, canister load factor less than 4.0, fuel tank pressure less than 0.5" Hg, then after the Idle Control system and Fuel Trim had stabilized, the PCM detected a fuel vapor leak (as small as 0.040") in the EVAP system during the EVAP Leak Test.

Possible Causes:


Fuel filler cap damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed.Small hoses or cuts present in the EVAP vapor hoses/lines.EVAP purge valve is damaged or has failed.Here you are the symptons.

POSSIBLE CAUSE EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE.FAULTY EVAP PRESSURE SENSOR.CHECK ALL EVAP SYSTEM.HOSES AND ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.

Code P0172 relates to the engine running too lean.
Code P0455 indicates that a leak has been detected in the Evaporative Emission Control System.

P0455 is most often caused by a a problem with the gas cap. It is either incorrectly installed, damaged or just worn out. Other possible causes are a leak in the EVAP system caused by damage or a loose vacuum line.
To solve this first check your gas cap for any damage or wear. For the EVAP system check under the hood. Listen for any vacuum leaks or for the odor of fuel. Check all the vacuum tubes and hoses for breaks in the line. If you find any repair or replace them.

The cause of P0172 is usually associated with a bad O2 sensor but this is not always the case. The causes could be a vacuum leak, an issue with the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) or some type of restriction with the fuel system.
The solutions are to inspect the inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses (which you have already done). Inspect and clean the MAF sensor. I am unsure what type engine you have but this will be located somewhere between the intake manifold, possibly on the large black air intake tube.
Finally check the fuel system for leaks. Also the fuel pressure should be checked. You should also run a good quality fuel injector cleaner through a couple fill ups.
After you have done all the simple tasks, (inspecting the gas cap and inspecting the vacuum line and hose on the EVAP system replacing if needed and the fuel injector cleaner. Get your codes reset and wait to see if they come back. If so I think your next step is to replace the O2 sensor. If this still does not solve the problem you will most likely need a complete engine analysis before you can continue.
If you get to that point you should re-post here with the results of the analysis before spend a large sum of money.
I hope this helps and good luck.

if evap is the only monitor that hasn't set yet, the car should still pass, a car is allowed to have 1 monitor that isn't set and still pass as long as the check engine light isn't on. take it in for the emissions, it should pass.

P0410 Secondary Air System PerformancePossible Causes Setting Conditions AIR solenoid Ignition circuit is open (check the U/H IGN fuse) AIR pump has failed (inspect air pump for water) AIR system check valves and/or pipes are damaged or leaking AIR system hoses or lines are damaged, pinched or kinked Base engine problem (e.g., excessive exhaust back pressure) PCM has failed P0300 Multiple Cylinder Misfire DetectedPossible Causes Setting Conditions Base engine mechanical fault that affects one or more cylinders EVAP system problem or the EVAP canister is fuel saturated EGR valve is stuck open or PCV system has a vacuum leak Fuel delivery component fault that affects two or more cylinders Ignition system fault (a coil) that affects more than one cylinder

If the "evap not ready" readiness monitor never clears and you keep getting P0440,P0441,P0446 type codes, then you have a problem with the evap system. You have already tried the gas cap (good start) but there are about 6 other things it can be from electrical VSV air valves (there are 3 of them, 2 under the hood, 1 near the charcoal cannister (behind fuel tank) to 2 air operated valves on the front of the same cannister. There is also an air line that goes to one of the electric VSV valves on the air cleaner under the hood. Several oil change places have been guilty of pullling these off and not reconnecting them.
We have a page with pictures of our experience,

http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/toyota_sienna_evap_P0446.htm