H23 motor not getting compression after timing belt installed

Hi , First off if the motor ran fine before the belt was replaced but not now tells me the belt was not installed right ( not aligned up to timing marks correctly) and will need to be taken apart and rechecked. Keep in mind cranking it alot when belt not installed right can lead to valve damage so it's better to check belt alignment 2-3-4 times before cranking. Also make sure Cam and Crank sensors are all plugged back in along with other sensor connectors before starting because not only will it not start but can damage other parts on a motor design to work in harmony with every thing else.

Hope this help with your question.
Pat

while cranking the engine over if the motor sounds like there is no compression and spins over easily, chances are good the timing belt is broken. some engines are interference engines meaning that if the belt breaks the valves could hit the pistons causing engine damage. the way to check this out is after a new timing belt is installed correctly do a compression check on it to see if the compression is correct.

what engine, see list at end. 2.2L 2.7L or 3.0L?
never post no starts, with no engine stated, all below is GENERIC HONDA.
you are guessing why guess?
how did yo prove its not the battery.?? jumper cables starts?
how? never tell the mech, that, let him find the truth.
if you tell him wrong, he may spend a fortune proving you wrong.
(not me but can) see why? (labor and wrong parts replaced)
is this a no crank >? or a no start, why start at step 3.
or even not tell step 1 &2 ? was done.....

all use old folks , have hand cranked old tin lizzys.
and owned 50 motorcycles all FOOT KICK started.
so if it dont crank robustly it will never start is not lost on the old crowd.

1. checked all fuses yet? CEL lamp glows in dash KEY ON??????
2. cranks fast?
3. got spark?
4. ever done the 60k miles tune up, and is the CAM belt fresh.

if the cam belt snaps, the whole engine can be lost.
i do leak down tests on all hondas. for good reason.
and 100x time that for Honda's NEVER SERVICED !!!
i can even hear you crank it, and see its lost compression just buy the sound of the starter, (sounds like sewing machine running, no load)

if compression is good and spark is good, and not flooding
you can use test fuel, to prove engine and spark is good.
but id not, if that cam belt is not fresh.
you never posted engine type ,size or cyl count so can be accurate here.
my 1st rule on honda's (all interference engines)
is: RULE1: First do no harm.
and cranking it like mad, is just that.


see belt change intervals. USA miles.
did you replace it? ever?
Honda belts, fleabay $10 belts will never last this long, ever....!!!!!
EngineInterferenceReplace belt rules. (repeats for life of engine)
1.2(EB)YesN/A
1.3(D13)Yes60,000
1.5(D15)Yes60,000
1.6(D16)Yes90,000
1.8(r18)Yes60,000
2.0 (SOHC)Yes90,000
2.0 (DOHC) (K20)Yes90,000
2.1Yes90,000
2.2 (SOHC)(F22B)Yes90,000
2.2 (DOHC)(F22C)Yes90,000
2.2 (DOHC Passport)(J32)Yes75,000
2.3(F23/H23)Yes90,000
2.64ZE1Yes75,000
2.7(C27)Yes90,000
3.0(J30)Yes105,000
3.2(J32)Yes75,000
3.5(J35)Yes90,000
Buy Gates belts or Honda real.

OK: ILL pretend engine compression is good
cranks fast
spark is bad. (on all cyl)
connect (in USA) the scan tool and crank for 5 seconds
id bet the ECU just told you (by RPM=0 , or DTC why it dont start)

If your sure the timing belt is correctly installed, then check compression. you very well may have bent some valves when the timing belt broke. low or no compression will be a sign that this is the case.

did you hear any crunching after when you tried to start it, sometimes it takes some cranking to get the valves to close up and make compression, does it crank at all?

If the engine cranks, but doesn't start, and you've determined that the timing belt and cam gear aren't turning, then several things may have happened.

If the driving sprocket (on the crankshaft) is keyed, check for a sheared key. Make sure the timing belt is properly tensioned (too little tension will allow the crank to turn, but not drive the belt and cam).

Even though you say the belt is good....make sure there isn't a series of teeth ripped of at the crankshaft sprocket (again, this would allow the belt to slip and not turn when the engine is cranked over.

As to there being compression....yes, when the cam isn't turning one or more cylinders will have all valves closed for the top of the compression stroke. This would give a reading of compression, since the valves aren't being activated by a rotating camshaft.

Good luck!

It is possible the valves could hit the pistons and were bent. Another part that may have been damaged is the crank angle sensor located off the lower belt gear on the crank shaft. A dealer can tell you if your valves get damaged when the belt breaks on your model (on some engines the valves do not contact the pistons when the belt breaks).You can line up the timing marks and replace the belt yourself. Before reassembling the motor, run a compression test to see if the the head needs to be repaired. If your compression is still 110 or above on all cylinders (and with in ten pound pressure of each other) your engine should run when you put it back together. When you are replacing the belt you can inspect the crank angle sensor for possible damage.

303 is a misfire on the number 3 cylinder, 432 is a bad catalytic converter or O2 sensor, 456 is a minor evaporator leak (Most likely the gas cap wasn't screwed on tight). Do a compression check on the motor. Most likely you'll find zero compression or low compression on 1 or more of the cylinders. I suspect your timing belt broke. Unfortunately this means you be replacing the timing belt but you will also have to have the head fixed and replace all of the valves. If the vehicle has a Distributor and not a coil pack you can remove the distributor cap and crank the motor over, if the rotor doesn't turn it is you timing belt, if it does the timing belt is good. Some vehicle also have a plastic cover over the front timing belt pulley that can be removed to check the belt. You maybe able to remove this and check it that way.

50-50 chance. You'll have to re-install belt, align marks & crank it over & test compression before you'll know for sure.

Get new belt installed & all aligned as it should be & do compression test before going any further to make sure. If good compression there in all cylinders, you probably dodged ( no pun intended) a bullet. Not 100% sure whether that is an interference engine or not, but will see if I can find out. By the sounds of the backfiring description, I'd be tempted to say you still have good compression. here's to hoping. Make sure when you get it back running that you keep a close eye on oil & coolant levels for a while just in case the backfiring cause some gaskets or seals to blow. Watch for difference between cylinders when doing compression test.