Oil in radiator

Have a compression test done on each cylinder. Possibly a blown headgasket or cracked head

oil leak in valve cover got gasget in side valve cover and if plug wires wear not on like thay got to be that well do it dont seal

It sounds like you may have a bad head gasket, causing normal mechanical compression to pressurize your cooling system. This would be an internal leak with no external visible symptoms. This could have been caused by a recent overheating, but some engines are more prone to this as "normal" aging.

Your auto parts store can test a sample of your coolant for by-products of combustion, just make sure the sample you provide isn't fresh coolant you just added. You'll need to run the engine long enough to get up to normal operating temperature, but don't drive it regularly until you get this problem fixed.

Sometimes coolant will mix with your oil when head gasket is bad, but not every time. If your oil level is high and the oil looks like chocolate milk, it's extremely likely the head gasket is bad.

A compression test will also pinpoint the "bad" cylinder, typically 2 cylinders will show low compression, but not always...but at least one will be low. If it tests as a bad head gasket, you will need to replace both if it's a V6 or V8 for a thorough repair, and have the mating surface of the heads resurfaced.

Odd, I can't see it from here either!

Doesn't sound like it ran hot enough or long enough to crack or warp the head. If there is a crack, the engine will continue to overheat. If a warped head, car would probably run rough, the affected cylinders would likely have little or no compression, there would be a noticeable miss, and overheating would continue.
Why the low coolant? It's a sealed system, so should never have to add coolant, other than a small loss from evaporation in the overflow tank. Monitor the level closely for the next few days. Note the level in the overflow tank to see if it drops over time. Leaks can be external anywhere in the coolant system-engine, radiator, hoses, heater core- or internal in the engine-head gasket failures can cause coolant in the cylinders (white smoke out the exhaust), or coolant in the oil (oil will have a milky brown look to it), or oil in the coolant (will see traces of oil in the radiator).
A couple of tests may be called for. A pressure test of the coolant system will check if the system holds pressure as it should-about 15 psi. If pressure does not hold, there is a leak somewhere. Water pumps usually leak through the weep hole when they fail. A radiator leak would show up when pressure is applied. If pressure does hold, check if you have a good radiator cap-the cap is what seals the system so pressure will maintain. Coolant under pressure raises it's boiling point by about 10 degrees, so is critical to keep the system under pressure.
If you suspect further problems-losing coolant or continued overheating-then have the chemical test done to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant. Basically a check if the head gasket is good, a simple test done at the radiator cap opening with a special fluid that changes color if hydrocarbons are present in the cooling system.
Or you could have a compression test of the cylinders to check the internal mechanical condition-not only tells you if head gasket is good, also tells you a lot about engine condition-even,. balanced, good compression in all cylinders translates into good power output-rings are good, valves are sealing good, all systems go.
The cooling system: water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, heater core and hoses, radiator cap, overflow tank, and the cooling fans and associated wiring. Make sure everything is working right and you'll be good to go.

I would recommend that you flush the radiator with some Prestone radiator flush, and if that does not resolve the issue, I would recommend that you check the cooling fan, and the switch that activates the fan. If the fan is coming on as it should, then the switch is probably good, and you will want to replace the radiator.

coil or electronic ignition module going off when turning warmer.i guess run some test

You probably have a blown head gasket, not allowing you to get enough compression built to start the engine.

Rent a compression tester from AutoZone (You get your money back when you take it back) and use it. If the compression on each cylinder is less than 100 PSI, you've got some issues. The cylinders should also be somewhat balanced.

is there smoke coming out of the exhaust? if so what color? if it has white smoke is usually a blown head gasket. if it is a bluish gray it is oil. check your radiator when it is cool. if it appears to have oil in it it could be a blown head gasket. if you leave the radiator cap off start the motor, if you rev the engine and coolant shoots out of the radiator (compression from the cylinder forcing water out) it is a blown head gasket. this can cause the motor to run weak and idle rough and oil to disappear.
if you happen to have a compression gauge take out all of the spark plugs look at the spark plugs if they all look the same or is there ones that look black and sooty(running rich) or looks green(burning antifreeze/water) white Burning hot) http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
check the compression of each cylinder it is easier if you have an assistant for this. place the gauge over the spark plug hole crank the motor once or twice. the gauge should be around 120 psi (pounds per square inch). if all of the cylinders are under 120 psi more than likely you have worn or broken rings which will cause low compression causing it to run weak and consume oil.

you probably have air trapped in the system. Have dealer or radiator shop bleed system.

I assume your cooling fan is working.

what engine v6 or v8?

SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Engine Cooling The cooling system components include the:

• block heater (optional)
• cylinder head temperature sensor
• fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
• radiator
• pressure relief cap
• degas bottle
• radiator draincock
• water pump
• oil cooler (optional)
• water thermostat

The water thermostat:

• controls the engine coolant temperature.
• allows quicker engine warm-up.

The degas bottle:

• provides a location for system fill.
• contains coolant expansion and system pressurization.
• provides air separation during operation.
• replenishes the engine coolant to the system.

The fan blade draws air through the radiator to help cool the engine coolant.
The fan motor:

• operates only when the engine is running.
• will not operate when the engine is off.

The engine coolant flows:

• from the lower radiator hose to the water pump.
• from the water pump to the engine block and the cylinder heads.

A closed water thermostat returns the engine coolant to the water pump. An open water thermostat allows the engine coolant to flow to the radiator.
Unsatisfactory coolant materials:

• Alcohol-type antifreeze does not provide adequate water pump lubrication.
  • has lower boiling point
  • reduced antifreeze protection
• Alkaline brine solutions will cause serious engine cooling system damage.

The cylinder head temperature sensor provides a signal to the temperature gauge.

• will invoke failsafe cooling.

The optional block heater:

• electrical heating element is installed in the block cooling jacket.
  • uses a standard 110V (220V in Europe) electrical supply
• keeps the engine coolant warm during cold weather.

The auxiliary water pump (3.9L only):

• provides heater coolant flow boost.
• has a secondary function of providing engine-off cooling.