Never had a problem with the car before, and then all of a sudden today it wouldn't start. the radio and lights came on, but when I turned the key it just clicked very fast, but you couldn't hear the engine starting at all. no sounds from the engine what so ever. I had a friend jump it with cables, and let it run for about 40 mins. the car now starts each time, but the heat/ac wont blow any air.
Check the fuse & relay (owners manual will show you where the box is)
Relay box in under the hood on the driver side just above the tire.
Inside fuse box should be on the side of the dashboard (driver side) very close to the door hinges.
I'm pretty sure you popped a relay or fuse during the jump.
You can pull the possible bad relay out and grab another relay (borrow it) from something else like brakes or lights.... just make sure it's the same part number.
(don't use fuel or engine control or anything that would stop the car from working)
Swap them and start the car to see if the AC/blower is working.
Hope this helps
Testimonial: "I couldn't get the fuse out and I didn't want to mess anything up, so I brought it to my local mechanic. He ordered the part for me, and he'll be putting it in this weekend. But he couldn't figure out why the car wouldn't start. The car ran for another 2 days and then didn't start, and had to jump it again. Then a week passed by, and today the car didn't start again. They checked the battery, and its fine. There are no lights on in the car, and nothing is plugged in. I don't know what to do :("
SOURCE: After approx 40 min of highway driving the AC stops blowing cold
This is a problem solved by moderation. There are pressure switches in the system which cut off the compressor for too high a charge and too low a charge. The unit is suppose to cycle between a predetermined range, a moderation between high and low. If you were having problems before replacing the freon there is at least 1 pressure switch that could have been your problem in the beginning. If you have a manifold guage which shows high and low pressure you can tell when the pressure switch is open or closed. Some switches and for sure the autoparts store selling them can tell you the op[erating range of your switch. You can try just replacing the low pressure switch and fly blind without the manifold guages. Know how many ounces of Freon you put in? Compare to specs to see if you overcharged.
SOURCE: hyundai elantra air cond heater stuck on heat
sounds like the heat blend cable is either dislodged or frozen, the cable runs from the control head to the blend door located on the drivers side just above the gas pedal ,it is not an easy job to replace, i sugest to take it to your local dealer, its not that costly and they will know exactly what to fix.
Testimonial: "as my car is right hand drive i take it the position stated would be next to the centre console on side of heater air con box behind dash board. "
SOURCE: AC will blow cold air for a few minutes then start
you have moisture in the system this causes your expancion valve to freeze up an stop working, thats why it works for sort time and when it de-freezes stars working again. you need to do a EVAC & RECHARGE with a good AC service equipment, specially attention to pull vacumm por at least 20minutes so you get all moisture out of the system.
Good luck
Testimonial: "Thank you Magoly, its working Thank you very much."
The humming would be the fuel pump coming on. It should only hum for a few seconds, then shut off.
Your problem is with the start circuit from the battery to the starter, or from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the starter (the big cable) for tightness.
Is the battery charged up enough to turn the engine over? Check by turning headlights on and observe while someone turns key to crank. If they dim a LOT, then either battery is too low, or the starter is bad and needs removing for testing. If brightness doesn't change, then the circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is likely not working. Check for 12 volts at the small wire to starter solenoid with key in cranking position. If you have power there, the solenoid may be bad. Remove starter for testing. If no power at solenoid in starting position, then either the ignition switch is bad or the neutral safety switch might be the problem, or the wiring from the switch to the starter solenoid is not passing current.
Good luck.
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