Pass side fuse box has no power after arching the battery. Need help!

If no power at the dash.....check main 40amp fuse located in a plastic box under the hood......plastic box on top of fenderwell closest too the battery.....always disconnect battery ground before any electrical is performed...........

No power to whole system ??? Nothing ? Turn the key to run an instrument cluster doesn't turn on ,no warning light's . Factory service info shows no big red fuse on the battery cable .Battery cables connect to fuse box ,under hood and under the rear seat . Wiring behide pass. right rear tire is fuel pump , rear lighting . Nothing that would blow a main fuse . This vehicle has no fusible links .

Chances are its one of the fuseable links at the starter. The car gets some of its power thru those wires. They look like regular wires except they have an internal fuse. You may need a wiring diagram to figure out which circuit is affected.

Not sure but if it were me I'd check the wires going into my fuse box sounds like you've got wires arching Or your ignition switch has wires arching most likely it's your ignition switch. Not sure though

check battery,battery cables,starter,starer solenoid, check if your battery have any power left, by turning lights on, if light is strong then on the starter motor,remove the remote wire, the thin wire connected to the starter from the ign. switch, instead of the remote cable, try to by pass it, with battery voltage, with ign switch on on pasition, if your starter works the starter is good if not change the estater, if starter works then check the remote wire, could be damage, could be the starter switch, fuse , or the starter relay. when working on car always make sure if the engine starts there is rotsting components. Thanks

if you got a spark when you touch it to the side (which is the ground) the wire is a power source that should go to the terminal at the back of the lighter. there is no relay for this circuit so change the new fuse it's blown and check for burnt wires.

Hi J_livezey,
Your fuse box is located behind the right side of the dash,to the right of the glove box.Here is a diagram to better expalin.If you need anything else,let me know. Thanks,Chuck.

find a good auto electric shop and have them remove or by-pass this mess.It can be done,I recomend it.

There is no fuel pump cut off switch on the LeSabre. Check the fuse and relay on the passenger side behind the glove box. There should be 4 black relays. The fuse pump is below this and the pump fuse is number 6. The other thing to keep in mind is the Pass lock system may not be recognizing the ignition key and has disabled the fuel pump from the ECM. Lets start with the fuse and relay first and we'll work on the Pass lock relearn process which takes about 30 min to do. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help.

TOOLS: Ideally you will need a 12 volt test light and a Digital Volt Ohm Meter. But if you do not have access to these tools you only be able to visually inspect the fuse for condition.

MY IDEA: (1) Open the hood and look for a fuse box with large fuses and relays in it. The fuses in this box will be physically larger than the fuses you may be used to seeing in the passenger compartment. Power door locks and windows not only require higer current flow as well as relays too. (2) Once you have located this box remove/open the cover and look for any labeling to identify fuses and relays as part of the power door lock or window systems.

CASE A: If these system fuses test okay/pass a visual inspection (not blown to open the circuit), light the test light on both legs of the fuse or when checking with a meter have minimal resistance across the fuse then you should change your focus at least temporarily to the master switch in the drivers door.
Since both the power door locks and power windows are inoperative I would start my diagnosis at the master switch assembly in the drivers side door. Somehow you need to get the master switch assembly out of the arm rest to proceed with diagnostics.

CASE B: if the system fuses didn't test okay/fail inspection...you will need to get the master switch assembly out of the arm rest and remove all the connectors to remove a potential fault to cause the fuse(s) to blow open.

Before proceeding I need to know what the results are (i.e. CASE A or B). This will indicate where we need to look next to run further diagnostics.

I know I haven't mentioned the radio symptoms but my suspicion is that it may be coincidental or resolved permanently with repairs to the other two systems.

Hope this helps.