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black smoke --over fuelling, incomplete combustion
white smoke --too lean , water getting into the combustion chamber ( gasket)
blue smoke-- valve stem seal incorrectly fitted( old or worn,hard),oil ring failure, cylinder bore damaged, worn main/big end bearings overloading the oil ring,fauty pcv valve or EGR system
This is usually oil consumption which means oil is getting into the cylinder combustion chambers. There can be a number of reasons but is usually engine wear - you can try a heavier weight oil which will reduce the consumption, Check your oil level periodically to see if it is being lost
Smoke pouring from the exhaust means that there is oil getting into the combustion chamber and is being partially burnt. Overheating engine means something is making the engine work extra hard. I suspect a broken ring Probably an oil ring. Pull the plugs and look for an oily plug and you will know which cylinder has the problem
it could be caused by your mechanic putting in the incorrect viscosity oil for your car. if it is too thin then it will seep into your combustion chamber before detonation and cause a rough fire as the oil is reacting to the combustion process and burning inside your cylinder. when your vehicle warms up the metal expands causing your piston rings to seal with the cylinder stopping the oil from seeping in from below.
I would get it checked as well as get a cylinder compression test done to assertain weather there is a problem with any of your cylinders.
cheers
Black smoke is fuel. Blue is oil. White is coolant / water.
Fuel is caused by timing and cold start system and requires some discussion to clarify.
Oil burning only on start is caused by failing rings on your cylinders. Oil then enters the combustion chambers and burns when you start the engine. If it continues to burn when running in particular when you accelerate it will also indicate ring/cylinder failure. It can also be from a failing head gasket where oil travels from the lubrication system into the combustion chamber. Some of the anti smoke additives available at the auto supply store do help.
I doubt you are seeing white as you say is smells like exhaust. White is coolant in the combustion chamber or exhaust system.
Of course it will. Not only that, but attempting to turn it over, might damage internals in the engine. Take all the spark plugs out, and start the engine for five or ten seconds, that should get the water out of the cylinders. Even with fresh plugs, the engine will be hard to start, but once it does, it will clean itself. Water in the cylinders also means water in the crankcase, so change the oil and filter afterwards.
I can tell about a couple of odors from oils that are quite indicative of the places where they oil is leaking into the exhaust though.
You've got a few internal places where oil can get into the engine and
even some can get into the combustion chambers. They have distinctive
odors and can really help diagnose the cause or reason for the oil
consumption.
First let's start with the "sweet-smells".
This means that the oil have gone through the combustion process along
with the engine's fuel (gasoline or diesels too!). It is about the same
smell you get whiffing the exhaust on a 2-cycle engine with gas-oil premix.
Places where this CAN happen:
1) Cylinder walls ie; piston rings, worn or broken.
2) PCV system where the oil is sucked into the manifold under vacuum
and is entrained into the combustion chamber in the normal air-flow to
the engine for combustion.
3) Intake runner-to-head surface gasket(s) where the intake can
actually **** oil from the cam tray area or the inner valley between
the heads and the intake manifold.
4) Occasionally from changing spark plugs in "well" type plug
chambers that let the plug get very close to the head through the head
casting. Taking a plug out and letting the collected oil fall into the
cylinder is usually a temporary situation, but can scare you when it
happens.
5) Cracked head or blown head gasket: this usually has to happen where
the head has a high pressure passageway for the oil to travel through
the head to get to a cam tower on top of the head.
6) Now - here's something that's gonna get debated, fer sure! ONLY the
intake valves can leak past their stem seals and allow oil to travel
down the stem onto the combustion process. Remember that I am speaking
or "sweet" oil smell here.
Now some of the "not sweet" or bitter oil smell:
1) Exhaust guides or stem seals on the EXHAUST valves ONLY can cause a very acrid smell of nasty, eye watering and cough-inducing stink.
2) CVCC or pre-combustion chambers can also cause this problem. The
Honda CVCC engines were notorious for this! The auxiliary valve can
leak oil into the pre-chamber and then it opens the valve and dumps the
burning mess into the main cylinder head area and the results are a bad
BAD stink and lots of white/blue smoke.
3) RARELY...very rarely the exhaust port AFTER the exhaust valve seat can become perforated and allow oil to get into the exhaust stream. It does NOT burn here - rather it just cooks-off with a very bad smell.
So-o-o-o
Acrid oil smell -
the oil has NOT gone through the combustion process in the cylinder
head but is rather "cooked" into a stinky odor. It may or may not smoke
too much too.
Sweet oil-burning smell - oil that has been burned as part of the combustion process in the combustion chamber on one or more or even all cylinders.
If you can see emulsification (white residue) inside the radiator cap, that means your cylinder head gasket is gone, your local gagrage should be able to determine this with either a compression test or a combustive test.
A compression test will show low compression on one cylinder and a combustive test will indicate exhaust gasses in the radiator, both indications of a blown head gasket.
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