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Jack Johnson Posted on Mar 16, 2014
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Engine coolant leaking from rear of engine

I just replace the radiator as it was definitely leaking from the top tank gasket. whe i went to refill it with coolant, I first started filling the engine through the top hose. I then noticed that coolant was rapidly leaking from the rear of the engine. I could not see where it was coming from. Any ideas?

1 Answer

Ted Alvarez

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  • Expert 193 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2014
Ted Alvarez
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Joined: Oct 21, 2009
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Look for hoses with loose clamps you might have missed tightening on.

Testimonial: "No, this is not the case. I changed the radiator, but now it is leaking from the back of the motor, not the front. I'm thinking freeze plug or heater line under the plenum."

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 16, 2008

SOURCE: Coolant still leaking from my 1996 Isuzu Rodeo.

There is a plastic heater pipe junction behind the inlet manifold against the fire wall that could be brittle and leaking.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2009

SOURCE: coolant leak on top of engine behind thermostat housing unit.

on the back of the motor under the plentium the there is a coolant tube with o-rings the go bad found that in mine need to remove plentium and intake off i hade to get the parts from the dealer

Anonymous

  • 398 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2009

SOURCE: 95 rodeo coolant problems

it could be leaking somewere else , get your cooling system pressure tested at a shop

simontricket

Simon

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 20, 2009

SOURCE: White smoke and pressure in radiator.

Any sign of diesel in the water ? sounds like head gasket to me and the engine will rebuild ok but have the dealer put in new injector tube sleeves and O seals .

agent91

Ned White

  • 2100 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2009

SOURCE: have coolant leak coming from rear of engine i was

It is not the freeze plug but the o-ring gasket at the back of the 23 radiator lines back there, there are 2 that you have to replace, Easy fix, but a nightmare to get to. The o-rings are nothing special, reg off the shelf. It wold be a good idea to take fotos before you start so you can see where everything was when you started, then it should all go back. the intake, dist coils, all the pipes, have to be moved out of the way. You get to clean up that mess back there while you are at it, Good luck.

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0helpful
1answer

Why coolant level in refill tank drops with no apparent leak?

Hi Ayaz
if there no leak detected that means the radiator cap is not holding the pressure, that cause the coolant to travel to the expansion tank and flood out, then when engine cool down, it will suck the coolant back to the radiator and leave the refill tank empty.
Replace the Radiator Cap

Good luck
0helpful
1answer

I have no heat unless the car idles for a long period, 15 maybe 20 mins. The gauge warms up as the motor does and there's no indication that the heater core is leaking. I want to try something...

Before even trying a new thermostat, try blocking air flow past the radiator and engine area with some cardboard in front of the radiator. If your temp. gauge shows below half all the time, try a hotter rated thermostat, one that stays closed just a bit longer. Say your t-stat is rated at 190 degrees, get one that is rated at 193 degrees- do small raises to avoid overheating-and in the summer, you may want to go back to the lower rated t-stat.. A parts store or Ford dealer could help you pick an optional thermostat.
To replace, drain enough coolant from the radiator so the level in the engine is below the thermostat housing. Take off the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. remove retaining bolts or nuts from the housing, any other obstructions, and pull the housing off, replace thermostat, clean the gasket mating area on the housing and the engine block, use a new gasket and fit all back together. Careful not to overtighten the t-stat housing bolts: the torque specs would be small-about 15-20 foot pounds of torque-just snug them down good-you can always go back and re-tighten a little if you see a leak. So, all back together, refill coolant and overflow tank, run engine with radiator cap off till engine is hot, and thermostat opens-this will helpyou bleed air out of the system. When thermostat opens, coolant level should drop a little. Shut off the engine, top up radiator and overflow tank as necessary, and replace radiator cap. Check for leaks.
0helpful
1answer

How to change thermostat

the radiator is filled to the top with coolant and the engine is run without the radiator cap in place, the coolant will expand and spill over as the engine warms up.
  • Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
  • Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
  • Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
  • Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
  • Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
  • The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
  • When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
  • Install the gasket.
  • Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
  • When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
  • You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
  • Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
  • If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stu

    CAUTION
    If the radiator is filled to the top with coolant and the engine is run without the radiator cap in place, the coolant will expand and spill over as the engine warms up.

    • Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
    • Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
    • Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
    • Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
    • Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
    • The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
    • When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
    • Install the gasket.
    • Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
    • When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
    • You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
    • Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
    • If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.
    NOTE When a paper gasket is used and the recess is in the thermostat housing, it is a good practice to position the thermostat into the recess and glue the gasket to hold it in place. If it falls out of its groove during installation, the outlet housing can be cracked or a coolant leak will result. Before tightening the water outlet housing, try to rock it back and forth to be sure it is flush. Housings are often cracked during this step.ck closed and must be replaced.
NOTE When a paper gasket is used and the recess is in the thermostat housing, it is a good practice to position the thermostat into the recess and glue the gasket to hold it in place. If it falls out of its groove during installation, the outlet housing can be cracked or a coolant leak will result. Before tightening the water outlet housing, try to rock it back and forth to be sure it is flush. Housings are often cracked during this step
5helpful
1answer

Coolant leaks from my ford escape I have had it pressure tested and fitted a new cap When parked leaves a puddle of coolant

Always find the source first, The rear water ports are directly behind the rear lower intake bolts and the front ports are directly in front of the front bolts. The rear ports are cast into the lower intake manifold and are dead ends, air can get trapped in that area. In cold weather your thermostat may open slower, resulting in a pressure build up at the rear ports. Any trapped air will compress. Normal coolant system pressure occurs when the glycol is operating temperature. I would try refilling the system and getting the air out,the leak may only occur when the system is full. With a cold engine, open the radiator cap and add 50/50 mix, fill the resevoir to the low mark. Run the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens, the upper hose will be hot when the stat opens. Turn the car off and refill the radiator to the top. Sqeeze the upper hose to remove any air. fill if necessary. replace cap, run car again until it reaches operating temp. Now with a full system check for leaks. When replacing lost coolant should also have the heat at max temp. Get a good mirror to check for leaks. The outter mating surface of the rear water jacket gasket is flush with the block and the edge of the lower manifold, sometimes you can see where it blew out.
0helpful
1answer

2001 Ford Escape. Coolant leaking from somewhere. Went through bottle of coolant in 2 days.

If there is no sign of a leak you need to test for cylinder head leaks.
Warm up the engine and remove the radiator cap. Top up the water to the neck of the filler. Squeeze the top hose a couple of times to shift any air in the top tank of the radiator. Run the engine on idle and check for bubbles it the radiator, keep it topped up to the neck. Bubbles showing means you have a head gasket problem.
2helpful
1answer

Water is not circulating car gets hot and expansion tank fills then suddenly after some time it will **** the expansion tank dry and drive at normal temp again 1995 subaru legacy 250t

Sounds like your thermostat has gone bad and needs to be replaced.
Your thermostat is located under a metal housing on the top of the engine. The upper radiator hose connects to this housing. To change the thermostat you basically need to drain the radiator after your engine is cold, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the engine, and remove the bolts from the small housing. replace the thermostat, and clean the surfaces on both sides and replace the gasket too. reinstall the housing, attach the hose, and refill the radiator. start the engine, warm it up and check for leaks, then re check the coolant level after the engine cools off again
1helpful
1answer

Radiator Reserve Tank

Your engine is pressurizing the coolant system through a leak in the head-gasket, it could be airgaps but I'm going to be your head gasket needs replacement.
0helpful
1answer

Need to replace my water pump do you have a diagram

5.3L Grand Prix Engine
  1. Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
  2. Remove the battery from the engine along with its tray.
  3. Take the drive belt out of the engine.
  4. Loosen and remove the three bolts to the water pump and remove the pump, throwing away the gasket.
  5. Clean the gasket mating surfaces and install the new water pump with a new gasket, tightening the bolts to 89 inch pounds (10 Nm).
  6. Reinstall the drive belt and the battery with the battery tray.
  7. Refill the engine's cooling system with coolant. Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
3.5L Grand Prix Engine
  1. Partially drain the coolant from the cooling system.
  2. Disconnect the surge tank outlet hose and remove the drive belt.
  3. Remove the idler pulley and the water pump pulley, making sure to note the locations of the bolts as you remove them as they are various lengths.
  4. Loosen and remove the bolts to the water pump, also taking note at their locations, and remove the pump.
  5. Install the new water pump with a new gasket, tightening the bolts to 124 inch pounds (14 Nm).
  6. Reattach the water pump pulley, tightening the bolts to 106 inch pounds (12 Nm).
  7. Reinstall the idler pulley, tightening the bolts to 37 foot pounds (50 Nm) and install the surge tank hose and drive belt.
  8. Refill the engine's cooling system with coolant.
  9. Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
3.4L and 3.1L Grand Prix Engines

  1. Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belt guard and the accessory drive belt.
  4. Loosen and remove the water pump pulley bolts and remove the water pump pulley.
  5. Remove the water pump bolts and remove the water pump.
  6. Install the new water pump along with a new gasket, tightening the bolts to 89 inch pounds (10 Nm).
  7. Reinstall the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 18 foot pounds (25 Nm).
  8. Reattach the accessory drive belt with the drive belt guard.
  9. Refill the engine's cooling system with coolant.
  10. Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

0helpful
2answers

I just changed the thermostat on 3.4 L 1999 Pontiac Gr Am GT THINKING IT WOULD FIX THE OVER HEATING. But there is white steam coming out the exhaust! The oil is not milky so it's not a head gasket. There's...

Are you adding coolant?
Yes ......means it's going somewhere.
Fill the coolant tank to the top...right to the top....leave the cap off and run the engine.
If you see bubbles you need a head gasket.
The intake gasket is another source of coolant leaks and at this area the coolant can be sucked into the engine and produce a white smoke.
Does the car run rough at the first start in the morning....could be antifreeze burning off in the cylinder or area that was leaking overnight meaning cyl gasket or intake gasket.
Look at the rear head to block area below the exhaust manifold.
Is there any trace of coolant or stains of coolant......yes means head gasket time.
Pressurizing each cyl at a time with air with the valves closed in that cyl will quickly show the location of the bad head gasket with bubbles coming out of the fill tank on the bad cyl (s).
Head gasket leaks don't always mean milky oil.
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