I failed my CA smog twice now, I rebuilt the TBI mid last year, when I went in to have the smog test done my HC was 216 - 15mph and 219 - 25mph the max allowed is 92-15mph and 68-25mph, CO% 1.88 - 15mph; 2.05 - 25mph max allowable is 0.65 - 15mph, 0.59- 25mph. I had a head gasket leak, I replaced the heads I have also replaced the IAC, EGR, MAP, Temp sensor,O2 sensor, knock sensor. I had it retested, ran it up the road for an hour before the test and the numbers weren't much better; HC 186-15mph and 183-25mph, CO% 1.46-15mph and 1.41-25mph. Does anyone have ideas? I am at a lost and not sure what to do?
Check everything that is connected to a vacuum line, check the CAT and the injectors and last run a compression test.
Brad, Thank you for the prompt response, I checked the vacuum lines and everything was connected and in good shape. I checked the vacuum pressure and at idle it is 21 in Hg, i don't know and can't find what it should be in the repair manual. When you say CAT, what is the?
Catalytic converter. Also your injectors might be worn. It could be a timing issue too.
Brad, I replaced the injectors when I pretty much rebuilt the top end of the motor.
Brad, Sorry, I also wanted to ask if there is a way to test the Catalytic converter, and if there is how is it done?
Brad, Here is something I didn\'t think about. When I took the bolt out of the head, I didn\'t realize it until later that the antifreeze drained into the y pipe. I am not sure how much but I used my shop vac to suck out what I could. I guess I am not sure how the CCworks and if the antifreeze would have harmed whatever is inside.
Replace the catalytic converter, antifreeze destroys them.
I will do that and let you know how it goes
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SOURCE: Failed CA smog test "MIL/Check Engine Light", computer data wiped
No this is not right. If you remove the battery everything resets anyways. If they are talking about relearn procedure, it should only require 50 miles. But if the light is on than either they did something wrong, created another problem, or there was already another one existing. Have the code read and let me know what it is. I'm in Ca too and used to prep european cars for smog, so I do know what I'm looking for. How did the rest do? What were the readings(if possible)?
SOURCE: 1993 S10 Chevrolet Blazer DID
what about the air filter is it clean ,silly question i know but you would be surprissed ,does this vehicle have one O2 sensor or two one after the cat as well or is it too old for two O2 sensors ,i know most europeon market vehicles didnt have cats till 1992 and most didnt have two sensors till around 2000 ,also check the two white or two black wires on sensor for 12v these are the heater feed wires for the sensors
SOURCE: I have a 1993 chevy
on the 1993 the MAP sensor is also the BARO sensor ( MAP/BARO) when you turn the key on the computer looks at the MAP/BARO sensor to get a reading of the barometric pressure that way it knows at what altuide the truck is at so it can asjust the fuel mixture for start up, then after the computer sees engine rpm it checks the MAP sensor ( manafold absulate pressure) basicly engine vacuum the higer the vaccum the less load is on the engine the lower the vacuum the higher the load and again it uses this info to adjust the fuel mixture, now with all that said when the engine is off and you unhook the vacuum hose is there vacuum being held in the hose? some of these older trucks had a vacuum filter in the line that would get pluged and start working like a check valve and hold vacuum on the sensor if this happens then the computer is not geatting a correct BARO reading when you turn on the key, also have you replace the sensor yet? and lastly have you hooked a scanner up yet to check the computer data when trying to start the engine? it would be of great help if i know what the BARO reading is and the MAP reading when trying to start the engine also cranking RPM and injection dwell and spark advance during cranking would also be very helpful......check these few things and get back with me and i will try to help you get to the bottom of this little problem.
SOURCE: failed smog test
Most modern vehicles have 2 catalytic converters, there may be one located at the exhaust manifold, or be what's called a resonator. The resonator will look almost like a cherry bomb muffler, this is a crucial part of exhaust emissions.
SOURCE: C15001993 truck 4.3 v6 Failed Emissions HIGH CO again
Sounds like you lost O2 Control
Check fuel trim & data with professional
scanner & such
You done as far as working at home, you did all
you can
You have a rich condition (CO)
Seems as though the coolant sensor is not working &
your in open loop
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Brad, I replaced the catalytic converter, you were right it was empty. I took it for a ride down the highway and then went to the smog testing site; it still failed the co% only at the 25mph; i am allowed 0.59% and I am still over at 0.66%. Any ideas, cause holy crap this is getting old. The codes I am reading now are 42 (Electric spark timing), 43 (Electronic spark control) and 45 (O2 sensor circuit; rich exhaust indicated). I have only found one O2 sensor on my truck (1988 Chevy K2500 5.7L), and it has been replaced, I replaced the IAC, fuel injectors, MAP, The coolant sensor, knock sensor, EGR, EGR soleniod; any suggegestions?
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1a...
that will take care of codes 42 and 43 that is causing 45
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