Question about Cars & Trucks
Check for water separator and change fuel filters. You should drain water separators daily.
Posted on May 29, 2017
yes there is a know problem with the fuel system. fuel pump breaks down, empty your fuel filter into a bowl and check for metalic, if you have this in the filter your pump is F..... along with all the other common rail stuff. expensive job... error codes though, i find that hard to believe, fuel pressure faults will occur, i think you garage does not know what to do. or does not want to tell you the cost of the job and he will be in doubt himself of wether he is right..... was you engine coil light flashing at any point.!!!
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
The cheapest way to go is to change the fuel filters first and the air filter. Then I would change the crankshaft sensor.
You may have to bit the bullet , and have the fuel pump changed before the fuel injection pump. The fuel pump in the tank can be loosing pressure to the fuel injectoin pump.
I think the lesser cost is the fuel tank pump vs. the fuel injection pump.
The system runs of fuel and air. No spark like on a gas engine.
So the problem can only be lack of fuel or lack of air getting into the vehicle air induction. A restriction in fuel or air will make the engine run poorly.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
I'd probably trying back-testing through the ignition circuit to see if you're getting power to your spark plugs, then the leads and so on...
Here's a quick check I use to cover the most common starting problems - however a faulty immobiliser is definitely a possibly (which isn't covered by this quick list)
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery.
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch (and immobiliser in this case), solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got a connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short - from the clicking sound this problem seems unlikely.
3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK. To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt). Sometimes you can 'rock' the car in gear to persuade the starter motor to move slightly and it will then turn for you.
4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.
Having a bit of a look through these things might point out a different problem in your ignition circuit - however the immobiliser is definitely a possibility and a place to start.
Hope this helps, Sherwin
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
SOURCE: My car is Volkswagen polo
Do not assume that the low oil pressure warning is a false one or that you only have a faulty oil pressure sensor. Your engine may in fact be running with low oil pressure once the oil heats up and thins out. 8-10 miles of running is enough to get the oil hot. It is significant that you only get the low oil pressure warning once the engine oil is warmed up.
If the oil pressure in the engine is low, engine lubrication will be impaired and the engine can be badly damaged so you need to run an engine oil pressure check.
1. How long has it been since you have changed the oil in the engine? If it has not been changed in the past 6 months then change it and change the oil filter at the same time. You must only use the oil specified by VW for that particular engine.
2. When new oil is heated it thins. If it is old and contaminated it will be even thinner when warm. You will get less oil pressure when the oil is thin and hot and more oil pressure when it is thick and cold. Fresh new oil is a little thicker as it has not been diluted with petrol and other contaminants.
Oil pressure also varies with engine speed (RPM). At idle or low engine RPM the oil pressure is lower.
3. OIL PRESSURE CHECK
After the oil is changed the car needs to be run to check if the oil pressure warning still appears. (I suspect that it probably will). If it does appear then an independent oil pressure gauge needs to be connected up to the lubrication system in the car to check the engine oil pressure. This is best done when the engine oil is hot because this is when you are getting the low pressure warning. Any competent mechanic will be able to do this. ( The useless ones will not). The oil pressure can then be properly checked on the gauge at various engine RPM. If there is a low oil pressure reading from the gauge then there could be a problem with the oil pump, the oil pick up or the oil pressure relief valve in the engine.
4. You mentioned that you see the oil pressure warning disappears once you accelerate. I suggest this is only occurring because with an increase in engine speed (higher RPM) the oil pump speed is increasing and the low oil pressure problem is being overcome temporarily. However as soon as the engine RPM drops the oil warning will appear again which means the engine is running with below minimum oil pressure at that RPM.
Even when you get no warning, the oil pressure in the engine could still be running significantly below the optimum level.
5. It is possible that the oil pressure is fine and that the problem is an electrical gremlin as these cars suffer from a variety of electrical faults. However from what you have described I think there is a problem with low oil pressure in the engine and until it is properly checked it is unwise to assume that you are just getting false oil pressure warnings.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 13, 2010
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