I was driving on highway. Voyager was missing power while hitting hill and shifting to overdrive at 50 mph. After a while I smelled something. I eased the speed. Later I pulled over and while braking and stopping car it shaked and bumped roughly, rpm went up and down and then car died. Then I started it easily but when I tried to put it in D or R, car shakes and shuts off. After a while I managed the car moving first putting in R with guick shifting and full gas and then in D and I was able to drive on highway 30 miles with normal driving and shifting. Then I had to stop on lights and car died almost the same way as before. Now I can make the car moving with quick shifting and full gas but it dies on every stopping. Starting is ok, although motor is wobbling and shaking but that was situation even before. With normal shifting into D or R engine revs up a little then rpm goes very low then back to 500 rpm and then shuts off. I have installed LPG on my car and the stalling is the same on gasoline and LPG. Please help, I have 2 small kids with me, 200 miles from home and I am desperate.
SOURCE: car keep shutting down
SOUNDS LIKE THE IDLE AIR VALVE IS CARBONED UP TRY SPRAYING CARBURETOR CLEANER INTO AIR INTAKE AT THE THRUTTLE BODY WHILE HOLDING IDLE SPEED AROUND 1500 TO 1900 RPMS USUALLY AFTER SPRAYING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES ABOUT HALF A CAN THE PROBLEM WILL BE FIXED ...IF THIS DOES NO GOOD YOU MAY HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE THE IDLE SPEED REPROGRAMED IN THE ECM WITH THE DEALERS DIAGNOSTIC SCAN TOOL....USUALLY FOR AROUND 50 TO 60 BUCKS HOPE THIS HELPS
SOURCE: when driving and speed goes
I have the same problem, you need to change de oil transmission or try an additive for aut. trans that resolve the problem for a while, but is almost most better changing de oil.
SOURCE: 2004 Nissan Quest began shaking while driving then
SOUND LIKE FUEL PUMP.SCAN IT TO MAKE SURE.IT ALSO COULD BE FUEL PUMP RELAY OR FUSE.
SOURCE: 2004 subaru forester, 99,000 miles. Check engine
Drop in to an Autozone, or Pep Boys, or similar big parts store & they will usually scan for codes free. This will hopefully eliminate all the guess work, or at least point everyone in right direction for better diagnosis. If not obvious from codes what the problem is, get back to us and we'll help you out.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the great suggestion . I'll have Autozone read the codes on Monday. Thanks again!"
SOURCE: ford ranger 1997 2.3 engine problem
I own a 96 & 97 Ford Ranger 2.3 Manual. The truck would shake hard when I came to an idle. We replaced Motor mounts, Timing belt,
Plugs wires, Harmonic Balancer, had it looked at for tranny brackets. It still shook. Clutch and Tranny shops all said it wasnt the clutch never heard of it before. Mechanic friend from out of state called - Had a Ford also with the same problem. If the shake gets stronger as you drive Crank or Harmonic Balancer, If it shakes at an Idle it is the PILOT Bearing bearing the clutch wears out from heavy hauling or torching motor. Clutches are replaced and the parts behind it are never looked at.
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