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Re: Should you have continuity on the starter with the...
Yes on the big terminal, but not on the small wire. Check to make sure you have continuity from battery negative to case of starter. This ensures you have a good ground. Have you had the distributor out?
I had the exact same problem with mine. After replacing nearly everything i took it to a shop today to learn that I had a bad wire on the back of the distributor and the new fuel pump i installed from autozone was faulty and not providing enough pressure.
LOL! you are in trouble, j/k
the plugs are under the igntion housing, it's ontop of the engine.
you need to take the 4 bolts off to get it off , then the 4 plugs under it.
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Your description is too vague to give specific advise. However, if you are stating that the engine turns over when you turn the key but it wont run, then you want to check a few possibilities. Fuel, Spark, compression. Make sure the engine is getting fuel. Then check for spark at one of the plug wires. Then check cylinder compression. No fuel can be a fuel pump, plugged filter, or pump electrical connection, like pump relay or wires. Spark problem can be ignition coil, coil pack, distributor module, distributor points. Compression can be piston rings, valves, head gasket. This is not everything, but it may help you!
Disconnect the distributor wiring connector and the vacuum advance hose, if the vehicle is so equipped.
Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor. Mark the position on the distributor housing.
On some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove the spark plug wires from the cap prior to cap removal.
Note the position of the vacuum advance, then remove the distributor holddown bolt and clamp.
Pull the distributor from the engine. Most distributors will need to be twisted as they are pulled out of their bore.
Once the distributor is removed, install a shop towel in the distributor opening to keep foreign material out of the engine block.
The entire assembly should be cleaned thoroughly. Make sure all solvent residue is completely removed.
Installing and Timing a Distributor
The following procedure may be followed to install the distributor and time it to the engine, if all reference marks were made during the removal of the distributor:
Lubricate the O-ring on the distributor shaft.
Position the rotor so that it is aligned with the mark made on the distributor housing prior to removal.
Align the distributor housing with the mark made on the engine block during removal.
Lower the distributor into the engine block, making sure the distributor drive is fully seated.
Distributors equipped with a helical drive gear will rotate at the distributor is being installed, causing the distributor to move away from the reference marks.
Pay attention to how much the rotor moves.
Remove the distributor and move the rotor backward the same amount. This should allow the shaft to rotate while the distributor is being installed and still be aligned with the reference marks.
Make sure the distributor housing is fully seated against the engine block. Sometimes it may be necessary to wiggle or rock the distributor to seat it fully into the drive gear.
Distributors with drive lugs must be mated with the drive grooves in the camshaft. Both are offset to eliminate the possibility of installing a distributor 180 degrees out of time.
The distributor must be aligned with the camshaft drive to seat the distributor in the engine block or cylinder head.
Rotate the distributor a small amount so the timer core teeth and pick-up teeth are aligned.
Install the distributor holddown clamp and bolt, leaving the bolt slightly loose.
Install the spark plug wires in the direction of distributor shaft rotation and in the cylinder firing order.
Connect the distributor wiring connectors. The vacuum advance hose is usually left disconnected until the timing is set with the engine running.
If the engine has been cranked while the distributor is removed, or no marks were made during removal, use this procedure to reinstall the distributor:
To be sure that the number one cylinder is on its compression stroke, observe the rocker arms to see that they are both moving. Then, rotate the crankshaft one revolution until the rocker arms for the companion to cylinder number one are both moving at TDC (top dead center). Align the timing mark and install the distributor with its rotor pointing to the number one spark plug cable in the distributor cap.
Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1. Install a test plug in the end of the spark plug wire and position the test plug away from you and cylinder #1.
Place your thumb over the bore for the spark plug and crank the engine until compression is felt.
Lightly crank the engine while observing the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Once the timing marks are aligned, stop cranking.
Identify the position for the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap.
Determine which way the distributor shaft will rotate when it is lowered onto the camshaft gear. Then position the rotor so that it will be under the #1 terminal on the distributor cap after the distributor gear is meshed with the camshaft gear.
After the distributor is installed in the engine, turn the distributor housing slightly so the pickup coil is aligned with the reluctor.
Install the distributor holddown clamp and bolt. Hand tighten the bolt.
Connect the pickup leads to the wiring harness.
Install the spark plug wires onto the distributor cap according to the engine's firing order. Check to make sure everything that was disconnected before the distributor was removed, is now connected. Connect a timing light and prepare the engine for an ignition timing check and adjustment.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the cooling system.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Hood
Accessory drive belts
Accelerator cable
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
Air intake duct
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
Canister hose
Brake booster vacuum line
Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor connector
Alternator wiring connectors
Oil pressure switch connector
Starter motor harness connectors
Ignition coil connector
Spark plug wires
Distributor
Exhaust front pipe
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gas temperature sensor connector
Air pump
EGR pipe
Heat shield
Exhaust manifold
Throttle Position (TP) switch connector
Cooling fan
Water pump pulley
Power steering pump
Intake manifold
Crankshaft pulley
Front cover
Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.
Valve cover
Rocker arms
Camshaft
Cylinder head
Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - 2.6L engine
To install:
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
NOTE: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil for assembly.
Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
Step 1: 58 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
Step 2: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm)
Install or connect the following:
Camshaft
Rocker arms
Valve cover
Timing belt
Front cover
Crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (128 Nm).
Intake manifold
Power steering pump
Water pump pulley
Cooling fan
TP switch connector
Exhaust manifold
Heat shield
EGR pipe
Air pump
EGR gas temperature sensor connector
Exhaust front pipe
Distributor
Spark plug wires
Ignition coil connector
Starter motor harness connectors
Oil pressure switch connector
Alternator wiring connectors
HO2S sensor connector
Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
Firing order for small block chevy is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the driver's side of the engine counting front to back. Passenger side is 2-4-6-8, front to back. You will need to get #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. To do this, remove the #1 spark plug and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap. You will need a helper for the next step. Place your index finger in the empty spark plug hole, Have your helper bump the starter with the ignition key, When #1 cylinder comes up on the compression stroke, the pressure will push your finger away from the spark plug hole. Don't worry, this doesn't hurt. Turn the key off. Check the timing mark on the harmonic balancer behind the crankshaft pulley. It should be pretty close to lining up with the "0" timing mark on the pointer attached to the engine block. Now pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor cap is pointing. This will be #1 on the distributor cap. The spark plug wire from the #1 plug will occupy that position. The next position on the distributor cap will be for the plug wire coming off the #8 cylinder. The rest of the plug wires will attach to the distributor cap in the above mentioned firing order counting clockwise. If you do not wish to place your finger in the #1 spark plug hole, you can use a piece of paper towel roll up and stuck in the hole just enough to form a seal. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke it will force the paper towel out. Any questions, just let me know.
You have a Misfire at Cylinder #4 meaning:
Dirty, fouled or malfunction Spark Plug at #4 Cylinder. Remove the Spark Plug and check the igntion (spark end).
Ignition (Spark Plug) Wire malfunction for #4 Cylinder.
Misfire from the Coil/Distributor at the #4 connection from Cylinder #4.
Get a Spark Plug/Wire/Coil/Distributor tester and check the Spark Plug, Wire and Coil.
I always recommend changing everything in sets meaning: Change all Spark Plugs and Wires.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
I'd start with one of these and move on to the next.
Fuel
Spark.
Is it getting fuel? You should have an "in tank" electric fuel pump. When you turn the key halfway (just before turning the engine/starter over), you should hear the fuel pump prime. Easy way to check is to look in the throttle body while someone turns the key to the "on" position. You should see/smell the fuel. You can also listen to the gas tank while the key gets turned. You should hear the fuel pump run.
To check spark, pull a spark plug out, put it back on the plug wire and rest the electrode end of the plug up against the engine or exhaust manifold and have someone turn the engine over. You should see the spark plug firing. Don't hold the plug or wire while doing this. You'll get zapped if it's working ok.
If these both check out ok, then take a look at your firing order. If it's off by a significant amount, it may not fire. I've seen this happen when a cap/rotor/wires were changed and the wire/rotor was not positioned on the correct cylinder. (Most of the time they will at least fire or backfire, but either not stay running or run REALLY badly if the firing order is off.
You need to get the timing checked, did you mark the position of the distributor before you took it off. If not you might be slightly off with the new distrib.
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