Check this procedure about Carburetor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION....
Fig. 1: Carburetor components
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the following:
Hot air tube.
Vacuum hose between the one-way valve and the manifold at the manifold.
Breather chamber (on air cleaner case) to intake manifold at the breather chamber.
Hose from the air cleaner case to the valve cover.
Hose from the carbon canister to the carburetor, at the carburetor.
Throttle opener hose at the throttle opener.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Plug the end of the fuel line to prevent dust entry.
Disconnect the choke and throttle control cables.
Disconnect the fuel shut-off solenoid wires.
Remove the carburetor retaining bolts and the carburetor. Leave
the insulator on the manifold. Cover the intake manifold to prevent
anything from falling into the manifold.
To install:
Install the carburetor assembly onto the insulator using a new gasket. Tighten the mounting nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
Attach the vacuum and electrical connections.
Connect the fuel lines to the carburetor.
Install the air cleaner assembly and reconnect the intake air hoses.
Connect the negative battery cable. Check and adjust the idle as needed.
Keep in mind that, when the carburetor is disassembled, wash all parts (except
diaphragms, electric choke units, pump plunger and any other plastic,
leather, fiber or rubber parts) in clean carburetor solvent. Do not
leave parts in the solvent any longer than is necessary to sufficiently
loosen the deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove the special finish
from the float bowl and choke valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit
for service. Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow them dry with
compressed air or allow them to air dry. Wipe clean all cork, plastic,
leather and fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Blow out
all passages and jets with compressed air and be sure that there are no
restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or similar tools to clean
jets, fuel passages or air bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately
to avoid accidental interchange.
Check all parts for wear or damage. If wear or damage is found, replace the defective parts. Especially check the following:
Check the float needle and seat for wear. If wear is found, replace the complete assembly.
Check the float hinge pin for wear and the float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace the float if fuel has leaked into it.
Check the throttle and choke shaft bores for wear or an
out-of-round condition. Damage or wear to the throttle arm, shaft or
shaft bore will often require replacement of the throttle body. These
parts require a close tolerance of fit; wear may allow air leakage,
which could affect starting and idling.
Throttle shafts and bushings are not included in overhaul kits. They can be purchased separately.
Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needles for burrs or grooves.
Any such condition requires replacement of the needle, since you will
not be able to obtain a satisfactory idle.
Test the accelerator pump check valves. They should pass air one
way but not the other. Test for proper seating by blowing and sucking on
the valve. Replace the valve if necessary. If the valve is
satisfactory, wash the valve again to remove breath moisture.
Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces with a straight edge.
Closely inspect the valves and seats for wear and damage, replacing as necessary.
After the carburetor is assembled, check the choke valve for freedom of operation.
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on passenger side of engine compartment you have the transmission, if you look down from above. there should be an inconspicuous round black rubber knob sticking up from a short tube kinda down low in the engine compartment, on the front-side of the transmission. definitely not as obvious as the oil stick
it is on the passenger side of the carburetor under the air cleaner on the intake manifold. two screws and a radiator hose have to be removed to access the thermostat
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