1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab Logo
Anonymous Posted on Jun 08, 2009

Ford engine doesn't start after self tune up

I have a similar problem with that recently by working on my Ford F150 5.0 efi by installing the works on tune up. I replaced the spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, oil filter and air filter. Once I put everything together for the first time and started up the engine which didn't even turn. I thought it was impossible because it was running perfectly fine before the tune up. Thankfully, I was told that the wires must be put in the exact firing order for the distributor cap and I've looked up on the internet for the firing order sequence diagram. I've put everything back in the right spot the second time and the engine started right up beautifully. However, a few days later, I ran into an another problem which could be related to the tune up. What you would need is to ensure that your spark plugs have the right gap for the proper firing as well by using spark plug gap and wire gauge tool. However, I'm not exactly sure what the deal is when someone mentions degree such as the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 "10 Degrees", emphasize on degree but that's the only part that gets me stump so far...still searching for the meaning of it.

  • Anonymous Jun 08, 2009

    I still feel like an idiot. If I want the spark to happen 10 degrees before top dead center. I'm guessing on what you're saying is that number one firing sequence should be plugged 10 degrees before the "top dead center" I'm looking down on the cap noticing there are nine taps, eight around and one in the center. The top tap is the "top dead center" which is at twelve o'clock and ten degrees before would be eleven o'clock then start the sequence in a clockwise direction.

  • Anonymous Jun 08, 2009

    I just wanted to double check on what you guys think considering that I've done some research over the internet by looking at the firing position diagram for the specific model and I've purchased the manual for the vehicle which points out the the number for each cylinder. I also double checked the wiring and even examined the rotor to see which direction it turns. It's going counter-clock wise and the firing order is in sequence in that direction. The engine turns but doesn't run. However, I'm only guessing on the 10 degree position which probably isn't doing me any good, and now I'm guessing the next thing that needs to be done is to check on the crankshaft which is something I haven't done yet. The manual is pretty vague and doesn't really mention anything about turning it to "0". So, I'd like to know where the crankshaft is located at in order to turn it to "0" and see if the rotor position itself to number one. How do I know if the spark is actually happening when I test it. So far I'm just doing the follow up with the same results on my engine turning but not starting up.

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Ok here is the meaning of firing order The numbers 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 represent the order of wish cylinder the distributor send a spark as it rotates Starting whit cylinder number 1 The distributor will have to rotor on the number 1 cylinder spark plug and the piston on the number 1 cylinder will be at the top So the fuel and air will be compressed and ignited by the spark plug. The next one will be the cylinder number 5 to do the same as the crankshaft and distributor rotate Next will be number 4 then 2 then 6 ? 7 ? 8. You get the idea "10 Degrees" The degrees represent of spark advance You may think gas explode instantly but it actually take a little time So for the explosion has maximum power when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the distributor send the spark a little ahead of time 10 degrees of revolution is the recommended by the manufacture but that can be adjust buy losing up the distributor clap bolt and manually turn it. In order to adjust that you need a timing gun Than will flash light on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and you will see a notch and a series of numbers than represents the timing advance Note If you have not turn the distributor by loosing to button clap bolt I recommend to live it alone and go to you local part store and get the repair manual find the firing order to see wish wire go to wish cylinder Rotate the crack shaft pulley on till the notch is on 0 and see if the distributor rotor is tours cylinder number one. Cars than don?t used distributor do that automatically and constantly adjust the ignition timing by the computer.

  • Anonymous Jun 08, 2009

    no no

    Top dead center is the moment piston at cylinder number one is at the top almost touching the cylinder head and the crankshaft is on the cero mark.

    the top of the distributor cap the one of the middle is the plug than comes from the ignition coil

    The ignition coil is what gives the spark to the distributor and the rotor position will give the spark to each individual spark plug one at the time.

    It seams to me you got all cables cross over.

  • Anonymous Jun 10, 2009

    Use a spare spark plug disconnect one of the spark plug cables and plug it up to the loose spark plug and hold it ageist the engine while some one crank it up for you if you don't have spark then you have some other electrical problem if you do have spark

    Buy a ignition timing gun and careful read all the instructions that will teach you how properly adjust your engine timing and you see if you have rem the cables wrong
    timing gun is a strobe light than makes the illusion than the crankshaft pulley stop moving while your engine is rotating

    make sure to use the timing gun clamp on the number one cable.

    dont buy the spensive gun whit a timig ajusting knob or digital ajustment that will youst confuse you more just buy a sheap one whit just a triger nothing more.


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10 degrees is what your ignition timing should be set at. You want the spark to happen 10 degrees before top dead center.

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