1997 accord start

What's the fuel pressure first thing , before starting . Could be check valve inside fuel pump module ,fuel drain's or bleeds off over night , drains back into the fuel take .
Car cranks too long Fast fuel pressure bleed off Faulty regulator Part 2

Sounds like two different problems. The no start could be fuel or ignition related. The loss of coolant could be an external or internal leak, including a head gasket.
You would need to figure out if you are lacking spark or fuel pressure when it fails to start to proceed with testing.

Being that there are misfire codes, (300 series P codes), and it's flooding I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and try to check the injectors and the fuel pressure regulator for leakage. If the vehicle has sat for a while, 1 or more of the injectors may have stuck open. If the fuel pressure is way to high it can cause the pressure regulator to leak. See if that helps.

Car not starting or turning over indicates towards multiple possibilities. It can be issue with battery or weak battery. But if battery checks out ok, then it can be starter issue or faulty alternator or problem with low fuel pressure or no spark at spark plugs due to dirty spark plugs or faulty ignition coil or injectors getting cracked or dirty and needs to be cleaned.

To confirm the problem, the basic troubleshooting is required.

Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:------

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-starting-issues.html

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This For spark plug problem, click the help links provided below: ---
Car has no spark?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-has-no-spark.html

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How to Replace Spark Plugs?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-spark-plugs.html

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Car cranks, has spark but will not start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-crankshas-spark-but-will-not-start.html

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The spark plug firing order for car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/spark-plug-firing-order-for-car.html

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How to gap spark plug ? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-gap-spark-plug-on-chevy-impala.html

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Spark plug Replacing for?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/spark-plug-replacing-for-chevy-impala.html

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How to identify number one spark plug on the distributor cap?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-identify-number-one-spark-plug.html

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How does the spark plug wire go on the distributor cap?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-does-spark-plug-wires-go-on.html

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Spark plug Firing Order Diagram?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/2006-suzuki-forenza-spark-plug-firing.html

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This will help.
Thanks.

First off have you checked for spark? First make sure you have spark then check for fuel pressure at the rail. Start off with the simple things first. Once you've gotten that far let me know and we can go further into the troubleshooting process.
Thank you,
Lee

Obtain a listing of your current service trouble codes which may point to the trouble.
More than likely you might want to consider either or both of these possibilities.
1. Replace your fuel filter.
2. Replace your fuel pressure regulator.
You can replace the above yourself if you have basic mechanical automotive skills and simple tools.

3. Least likey is that your fuel pump is working intermittently.
The service trouble codes would likely tell you that.

You might also want to check any fuses or wiring connectors.
Cadillac has fuses under the hood and in the rear trunk area. The Trunk area fuses are behind the carpeted padding behind the rear seat on the drivers side.


Both can be done yourself if your the least bit talented with tools and getting a tiny amount of grease on your hands.


Important: Only Work on these with the ignition turned off and cold. Otherwise fuel might leak on a hot item and cause a fire or explosion from the gasoline vapors.

When replacing both remember to release the fuel pressure first. Their is usually a valve at the end of the fuel rail with a covered scharder valve to do this. Just remove the cover, save in a safe place for reuse. Then with a small nail or similar item press in on the small pin to releive the pressure. ( It's similar to letting air out of a tire ) Make sure to have a rag and small cup to catch any fuel that leaks out. Once the pressure has been released fully, you can put the cover cap back on the schradrer valve. Now you can work on replacing the parts. Fuel pressure is restored when your done by simply restarting the engine.

The fuel filter is located on the bottom of the car frame rail just under the rear driver side car door.

The fuel pressure regulator is connected to the fuel rail lines toward the rear side of the engine manifold cover . If you have nylon rail fuels use the Fuel Pressuer Regulator for Nylon Fuel Rails. If you have Stainless Steel Fuel Rails use the Fuel Pressure Regulator for Stainless Steel Fuel Rails.

See the attached pictures.

Again, wipe up any spilled fuel and let vapors dissipate before restarting the car.

First I would obtain a listing of the Diagnostic Service Trouble Codes which might point you to what the malfunctioning problem might be. Usually, if their is a problem your Service Engine Light may be on.

I would also say to check the fuses for the fuel pump but if a fuse was broken or shorted the pump should not be working at all.

Before you replace a fuel pump, I would check out replacing the Fuel Filter and then the Fuel Presure Regulator. ( FPR ) Note: Their are 2 different types of ( FPR ) one for engines with Nylon Fuel Rails and one for engines with Stainless Steel Fuel Rails.

Another possibility is that your EGR Valve is malfuntioning or possibly the vacum to it has become disconnected or has a crack in its connecting hose. I am not going to detail the EGR more than this because it's the least likely cause except for checking its vacum hose connection which is easily checked and replaced.

Because of the backfiring or misfiring I would consider the possibility that one or more of your ignition coils might be going bad or has gone bad. It can also be caused by old spark plug wiring or even their connections to the ignition coils and the plugs.

IGNITION COIL PACK MODULES ( ICPM )

On a 1997 Cadillac Seville SLS if your running the Northstar engine it has( 4 ) Ignition Coil Pack Modules ( ICPM ) located just before the firewall on the passenger side. They can be replaced individually but since you can get them for anywhere between ($14 to $39 ) each I suggest you replace them all at one time.

Make sure and replace the ( ICPM ) in the proper sequence and that you get the spark plug wires reattached according to proper cylinder firing order. Older Igniton Coil Pack Modules had numbering for each cylinder on them, the replacement ones do not. Their is a correct sequence and I suggest either obtaining that or taking good notes and labeling the spark plug wires so that you get the correct ones put on in the proper order. You can also mark the ( ICPM ) with the correct numbers if that helps using a white ink marking pen.

The (Four ICPM) mount to an Igntion Control Module Circuit Board which has other wires and a grounding power cable connected to it. Just be careful that you don't damage any of the the connection wires that are on either end of the module.
I am not speaking of spark plug ignition wires, but other modular connecting wires that go to the Computer Control Module, etc.

Their is a good instruction guide located here:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528025eb00

OXYGEN SENSORS

Your car can also backfire if your Oxygen Sensors are defective. The 1997 Cadillac Seville has (4) Oxygen Sensors.
Oxygen Sensors work in pairs so you have to replace both units which complete a working pair match at one time.
Two of these can be self replaced with a little difficulty using a special tool ($10-$15 ). They are easier to replace if the car is jacked up a bit. Again the Diagnostic Service Trouble Codes can tell you if these are malfunctioning and which ones. . The two rear most Oxygen Sensors can be self replaced as mentioned above. The Oxygen Sensors located closer to the Manifold are more difficult to replace and usually need to be done at a shop because of their location.

(Use caution whenever working with a Jack or under a car supported by a Jack).

Replacing Igniton Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, Fuel Filters, the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Igniton Spark Plug Wires are considered part of a Tuneup Package and can all be done by yourself if your auto mechanically inclined and have a basic automotive tool set ($15 to $35).

If your replacing the plugs and wires make sure to get some lubricant to put on the wires and plugs before replacing and reattaching them. The lube is sold in small packages at most automotive store counters and costs about $1.50 a package.
You will need a couple of packages for each.

I recommend you also pick up some hand cleaner and shop rags while your their as well ( I prefer the GOJO or GOUP cleaners in the can which also have skin conditioners in them as well.) Cost about $10.

Distributor module may be bad. Is it getting spark? What is fuel pressure?

You need 3 things.
Compression
Good hot blue spark to all plugs.
Good gasoline and proper fuel pressure. 63-64 lbs.
If you have all 3 then move on to injector pulse to all injectors.
I think each injector is on a separate driver on that one.
Check for pulse to all of them.

You may be weak on fuel pressure . even a couple of lbs low on a cold start will cause a no start.
Double check cold start cranking fuel pressure. If under 63-62 lbs you have problems.
one test is to give it a squirt of carb cleaner not starting fluid. If it starts then you have a fuel pressure problem.
Run the full fuel pressure test and post back pressures.
Here is the guide lines on testing.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel. Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.

The 75-85 is only a check on the capable full pressure of fuel pump.
If you can not find the rubber return line check full pressure by plugging return line or just or the true full pressure can be taken direct at the end fuel filter.
What are the pressure readings that you have when done.
What are your cold start pressure readings?
Post back what you have. Good luck

Check the fuel pressure regulator. It should have a vacuum line attached to it - disconnect the vacuum line and turn the ignition on - if fuel come out then that's your problem. DON"T do this while the engine is hot or you could start a fire!