Erratic idle & shutting off

Could be fuel starvation or idle control valve

if it shuts off while driving down the road. and restarts after 10 minutes, its usually a bad crank sensor that does this. it messes up timing and shuts off fuel supply.

Starts runs then dies. Several things can be the problem low fuel pressure/volume . check fuel filter plugged. bad fuel pressure regulator or bad check valve in fuel pump not keeping fuel line charged with fuel. Idle air control is sticking/ dirty throttle plate. bad engine coolant temp sensor not reading true temp (sending warmer signal)

Sounds like a vacuumed leak, spray wd40 around the inlet manifold whilst on idle

It sounds like your Fuel Pump is failing once it get warm.

Have you checked your battery.. If it does not have at least 9 volts it can not run the computer , so it would start up but then die..

SOUND LIKE TO ME A POTENTAL FUEL PROBLEM, HAVE YOU TRIED CHANGING THE FUEL FILTER AND FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER? ITS WORTH A TRY, I USUALLY ONLY WORK ON FORDS, WHEN THEY HAVE THIS SYMPTOMS, ITS GENERALLY FUEL RELATED, OR AN IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, TRY SCANNING IT WITH A OBD1 SCAN TOOL, MOST PARTS STORES WILL SCAN IT AT NO CHARGE, BUT IF IT IS FUEL RELATED, NO DTC TROUBLE CODES WILL SHOW. OBD2 DIDNT START TILL 1996 YEAR MODELS. IT MAY BE A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, I WOULD CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE BOTH KEY ON, ENGINE OFF AND KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING. IF PRESSURE IS TOO LOW, YOU VERY WELL MAY NEED A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR OR EVEN POSSIBLY A NEW FUEL PUMP, BUT CHECK YOUR PRESSURE 1ST BEFORE THROWING MONEY AND PARTS AT IT.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Symptoms may include no start, rough idle, long crank times, driveway die outs or erratic fuel pressure. A new fuel pump has been released which delivers improved performance. This pump should be used whenever fuel pump failures are encountered.
DIAGNOSIS:
Basic fuel system diagnostics should be used as outlined in the appropriate service manual. A brief recap of the basic diagnostics follows:
Fuel pressure specification - 49 psi - plus or minus 5 psi.
High fuel pressure indicates problems with the fuel pressure regulator. Refer to the service manual for regulator diagnosis. Do not replace the fuel pump for high pressure.
Low fuel pressure - Low pressure could indicate a pump problem or it could indicate a plugged fuel filter or restricted fuel line or no fuel in the tank. Be sure to check these items before replacing the fuel pump.
Fuel System Leak down - When checking fuel pressure be sure to check the integrity of the system after shut down. With the fuel pressure gauge connected, shut the engine off and observe the pressure gauge. The system should maintain at least 24 psi for five minutes after shut down. If the pressure bleeds off quicker, it could indicate that an injector is leaking down or that the pressure regulator is leaking. This can lead to driveablity problems and require further diagnosis.
NOTE: IN RARE CASES WHERE MULTIPLE FUEL PUMP FAILURES HAVE OCCURRED ON THE SAME VEHICLE, A BUILD UP OF RESIDUE MAY HAVE ACCUMULATED ON THE INSIDE OF THE FUEL TANK. THE PRESENCE OF THIS RESIDUE IS NOT EASILY IDENTIFIABLE. THE RESIDUE CAN PASS THROUGH THE IN TANK FILTER AND CONTAMINATED THE PUMP ROTOR. IF MULTIPLE FAILURES HAVE OCCURRED WITH NO OBVIOUS INDICATION OF THE CAUSE, CONSIDERATION SHOULD BE MADE TO REPLACING THE FUEL TANK TO AVOID FUTURE PROBLEMS. PARTS REQUIRED:
I would start here and look at your fuel system closely

try cleaning the inside of the MAF sensor and do the following procedure as well.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

most likely idle air control sensor or low engine coolant I know sounds funny but IAC uses coolant to regulate idle. Idle air control valve or throttle body positioning sensor.