Starter is good but will not crank eng

No engine told( size and cyl count) or true Mazda name of eng.
hood up does engine crank pulley spin or not?
whines is bad, grinds is good, GRRRRRR GRRRR
WIZZZZ up and whine. ever.
wizzup (screams is a better word) me deaf here.
if not crank spin, he starter solenoid is bad. or flywheel teeth stripped.
the actual engine crank shaft must spin or there will be no spark
nor fueling!
check fuses
spark dead engine spins ,fuses good is

bad spark ICM module,. or bad Ignition coil.
or distributor or a wreck cap bad or rotor or both. new spark wires here,not 28 year old wires HV,cap ,rotor or spark plugs here

all fuse good????
is the starter relay bad (oops none there)
does CEL lamp glow key on then goes out ?
it must or PCM is dead or fuse to it dead.
the car may have TCM (trannybrain) and it too must scan good.


OK , the key line wire is dead. (sure NO CRANKS)
is the battery good and lugs clean?
do the head lamps work key off and bright.??????
is rested battery at 12.6vdc? not 10. (called SOC)
does jumper cable jump starts work.? hummmmm?

the transmission if AUTOMATIC<must be in PARK or neutral. to crank. , must, if park fails we always try Neutral next (TRS/PRNDL)
scan the PCM yet?, see if there are transmission errors>?
the schematic is here.

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

the below is off the Diesel page for this truck.
wow DOUBLE BATTERY F250 !!!!!!
if one fails the bad battery can wreck the good one.
manual trans is clutch switch (no trans told)
auto (A/T) is TRS. (trans, range switch )
central JB fuse pins 4/19 fuse 20 , 15amps NOT BLOWN
hint the fuse is only hot cranked !!!!!!!
there is no relay on the diesel
key on cranked 12vdc feeds the fuse (11vdc low if cranking happens)
and the fuse feeds, below left
if TRS not bad, crank juice goes directly to the solenoid seen here.
middle wire is clutch sw.


cropped to make it more clear.
manual trans only has a clutch pedal switch no TRS there.

fixing car guessing is very very expensive.
why do that, a $10 voltmeter from walfart and bam cause .
a harmless tool. lets humans see electrons, (voltage potential or drop) just like a water pressure gauge, does.
zero pressure, no flow, dead.
its a 97 grand so my guess its and automatic trans.
no engine stated, so i cant guess the matching box, so...
we do this, GENERIC.

here is a no crank page (called a class 1 failure, dead starter)
you cant drive car with a silent engine, DOA.

first off , there can be 2 ways for a car with a good battery and starter not to crank.
what are they, the park neutral switch dead, or the immoblizer.
skim.skis. angry.

if you had checked the starter relay first.
with a meter , you'd already have cut the problem in 1/2
(saving you the cost of the other half not bad, in 5min work)
using a VOLTMETER.
so car will not crank jumper cable started, (all reg. folks do this first or call AAA Tow and he does it for you)
ok he fails. starter is dead. still.

then this car is ZJ jeep the FSM book is free, posted here
300 times now. not again. ever. search.

here we go, with path checks
PDC fuse 8 good. 12v both sides, ok good.
now the Start relay there, 4 pins
pin C6 hot all time. 12v. white wire (WT)
pin c7 LG-bk wire goes hot cranked, if not forget starter bad.!!!
if the relay clicks and c9 is dead, the relay is bad. (easy no?)
if relay fails to click bingo , (P/N dead)
pin C8 YL-RD wire is hot cranked. if is good. if not? then key switch bad. (dead start pin)
pin C8 must be 0v cranked, or the Park/Neutr, switch is dead.
cranking voltage can be 10 to 12v. ok. (lower in Alaska)

easy no?
the skim immobilizer does not cut cranking , only fuel.
so dont replace that too.

the real deal.
my photo are large and clear but fixya wrecks them. all.

4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.

you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)

1. check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
2. you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
3. you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
4. you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
5. You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
6. if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
7. car still will not jumper crank.
8. we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
9. engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
10. engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
11. ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
12. now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
13. you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
14. or its bad starter relay.

now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?

the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)

see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.

the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.

no cranks, (A/T or M/T?)(
battery lugs cleaned?
Key turned on , CEL glows in dash, Check engine light>? yes, good.
does car crank jumper cable started.??????
if yes, your battery is bad or discharged, (good batteries can just be discharged, discharged dont make them bad, only dead or weak)
if ,jumper fails, to crank it fast.
then hot wire the solenoid (on side of starter caseing)
key in pocket, '
jump the big lug to the very tiny lug on the solenoid
cranks , not? bad starter
yes cranks but dont run, good, key is in pocket for safety, this is normal
but the KEY line is dead.
bad PRNDL switch
see the tricks section here

http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks

corroded battery terminals, clean them, and try jumper cables.
both way use same crappy terms.
what transmission A/T or M/T my guess, A/T
so wiggle the gear shift, try neutral starts. this is the PRNDL switch
wiggling it finds new fresh brass on the switch contacts,
wiggle as you crank the key.
if that fails
then hot wire the starter solenoid.
if that act causes cranking, then the starter and battery and cables are good. and means the KEY LINE is bad.
if no crank , hot wired, then that means the starter bad. (battery good , battery charged in all cases)

see hot wiring here.

http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

in a nut shell
1: battery charged at 12.6vdc. rested.
2: chock wheels, all brakes set., in PARK (or M/T in neutral.)
3: gain access to the starter
4: unplug the key line (that is the tiny wire) on starter solenoid.
5: keys in pocket
6: jumper the solenoid tiny wire, to the big outboard lug on solenoid.
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
it wont start, keys are in pocket.
the starter is good, i save you 1/2 the diagnosis. in 1 simple step
put the wire back removed in #4
if its dead, the KEY line is dead. ask how to fix that. next. i f so be...

sure,
no start or no crank
msut be crank right, it fails to crank at 300 rpm... robustly
yes.
1: bad or weak battery or cables it and starter are bad or corroded.
2: bad starter
3: key line dead. (small wire)
i hot wire the soleniod, if it cranks no , the key line is dead
ask how to fix that, ?
do ask, have all data at finger tips and how to....

Something wrong in the start circuit. The fact that dash lights come on indicates the ignition switch seems ok.- power is getting to it and exiting it.

The next place to check is the starter: before taking it off and have tested, do this quick test: when the car won't crank over, pull off the small wire on the starter solenoid-mounted on the starter-and see if that wire has power when the key is held in cranking position. You will need a helper to hold key in start, and an inexpensive testlight or volt meter to see if the wire has power.
This wire is the signal wire from the ignition switch to activate the solenoid and allow battery power to turn the starter motor on.
If the wire has power and still no crank, then the starter or solenoid is the problem, assuming battery and cables are good and connected tight. Pull the starter off and test it. If starter is good, probably the solenoid.
If the wire has no power when key is held in crank, the problem is in the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid-includes the neutral safety switch, maybe a starter relay, too. One would begin testing by checking for power on the start wire exiting the switch with key in cranking pos. If good there, test the neutral safety switcfh. If you have manual transm, the switch would be on the clutch pedal. If automatic, have a shop locate and test that.
Good luck- often, not always, it is the starter or solenoid. But do that check for power at solenoid , first.

Check power to starter motor solenoid, solenoid operation and starter motor voltage during cranking. If the starter motor is receiving power from the solenoid, but isn't cranking, then replace the starter motor.

Also check the condition of battery terminals, wiring and connections. Also check the earth wire from the body to the engine.

I am guessing that it may be the neutral safety switch