I'm installing gauge face overlays, and need to know which of the wires in the factory setup is for the parking lights. In order to run power to the overlay, I must connect the red power wire to the existing parking light wire. I don't want to guess which one it is. Can anyone help me with this?

Just out of curiosity, did you check the fuses under the steering wheel to the right as well as the fuses under the hood drivers side?

You said same socket, so it couldn't be a bad ground or then neither light would work. And you also said there is no power on the tail light wire at the socket? There should be voltage on the wire with park lights on. Find the rear tail harness. Somewhere there at the rear of the car the park light wire (the tail lights, running lights, all the same) will splice off to both sides of the car. You have passenger side lights, so you know the signal is good that far. Somewhere between the splice and the driver's side, the power is lost, maybe right at the splice. So find the harness, it will be either under the car along the frame, or inside the trunk. That's an old effin car, Howard. Are you sure you want to nurse it back to life? lol. Buy a Haynes manual for it - it will save you money in repairs. Good wiring diagrams, too.
Are those gauges in the instrument panel, and not aftermarket? If they are in the dash, I may know what it might be. I have an '87 Sentra. Fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and warning lights, and turn signals would only work intermittently. Car would start and run, but those things- sometimes not, or they would come on way after down the road. I traced it down to a faulty ignition relay in a relay block above the instrument fuse panel. The run wire out of the ignition switch trips this relay on, and it sends power to a portion of the fuse panel that has the fuses for the gauges and turn signal lights. Replacing the relay was the answer-they always work now. Your gauges may be similar, but almost as likely a loose connection somewhere.

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

Gray is the B+ power for fuel pump , black is ground for the fuel pump ! The other two wires are for the fuel level sending unit .( gas gauge )

is there a emobileliser in your civic? ive a 98 hatchback civic with an emobileliser in it and if i set it off same thing loud click and wont let me take out the key,,then i reset it from the side of the steering wheel ,with this special thing i have with my key,,,,sounds weird whats happing to you,,let me know more if u can

The rear lights :

Brown is the parking lamps ( either side )

Driver's side Stop / Turn : Light green w/ White stripe wire
Pass Side Stop / Turn : White w/ Light blue stripe wire

Another option ( for use with the factory trailer circuits ) is to add / replace the factory tow adapter. eTrailer has them, if you are interested. This is the type adapter as Ford p/n: YL3Z-13A576-G. You would need to install the relay and the fuses for the trailer circuits if you do this.

1999 Honda Civic DX 1.6L MFI SOHC 4cyl
Starter Removal & Installation



Fig. Starter wire connections



Fig. A ratchet and long extension may be needed to remove the starter

The factory sound system has a coded theft protection system. It is recommended that you know your reset code before you begin.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove all wiring from harness.
3. Remove the lower radiator hose from the bracket on the starter motor.
4. Remove the starter cable from terminal B located on the back of the solenoid.
5. Remove the black/white wire from the S (solenoid) terminal.
6. Remove the two bolts that mount the starter to the transaxle assembly.
7. Remove the starter.

To install:

1. Install in the reverse order of removal.

When installing the heavy gauge starter cable, make sure the crimped side of the terminal end is facing out.

1. Enter the anti-theft code and radio presets.

I hope help you with this (rated this help). Good luck.

Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange And Red/White
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Blue (16 Gauge)
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Blue (10 Gauge)
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): Orange
Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 6-Pin
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12-Pin
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At PCM, Connector 1, Pin A7. The PCM (powertrain control module) is located on the firewall next to the wiper motor.
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White/Tan
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Black/Orange (To disarm requires a (-) negative through a 1565 ohm resistor and an extra relay to connect.)
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12 Pin Plug
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

pull the head light switch and use a 12 volt test light ($5-$6 any parts store) to see which wire dims the test light when u turn the dash light dimmer up and down, that is the wire you need to tap into for guage illumination.

you wil be best to tap right into the battery and give them their own fuse and an iluminated flick switch near the drivers position, yes this will mean drilling a fresh hold for the switch but will make it easier if you extend you light show or add a "remote light controler" later, also they can be a huge drain on the main driving lights when tapped into the factory installed ones, causing them to dim out.