Recently rear end blew and broke u joint at read end I installed a used rear end after installing truck will only go in reverse and actually engage at rear end but when put in drive it sounds like it shifts but not turning drive shaft. did something else break from the rear end blowing?
more than like have a broken axle shaft, un hook the rear drive shaft and put it in 4wd if it wont move then you know you got a broken axle shaft or spider gears broke in the pumpkin
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What most people see as a harsh transmission shift when transitioning from forward gears to reverse gear is really just the drive train taking up the slack in the connections. You need to realize that over time the universal joints in the drive shaft, as well as the pinion and ring gears in the rear differential will experience wear. When you are going forward the drive shaft is turning one direction, the u-joints and differential gears are all taking stress one one particular side. When you shift to reverse, everything reverses. So, the first thing to happen is the front u-joint changes direction. There will be a small amount of slack in the joint from wear. This slack will cause an irregular motion while it is taken up. This irregular motion is propagated to the rear u-joint, which must do the same. It will induce additional irregular motion, which is passed to the pinion and ring gears in the rear differential. In a new car/truck, you won't hardly notice this since all the wear surfaces are new and at factory tolerances. Give the vehicle 60-100K miles or more of hard wear and the result of this shifting to reverse can be a relatively loud clunking noise that can shake the vehicle. Replacement of u-joints can alleviate some of the issue, but the rear end wear can only be addressed with replacement. But as we say.....if it ain't really broke, why fix it?
Check where the shift cable attaches to transmission. Left side of engine, above axle. On the end of the cable is a plastic cup thar a small ball joints is inserted from shift lever. Those always wear out . Reinsert it and use a fat rubber band to hold it in. Then at your conscience , buy the $250 cable and three hours to install. My temporary fix has been there for two years, but, have a spare rubber and in the console.
It is possible you have u-joints that are failing. You should be able to have someone get underneath the vehicle and check your drive shaft at both ends. (transmission and differential. Also make sure your vehicle is not idling higher than normal. If this is not the issue, you should see a transmission shop. Read the reports on them before going to thier shop. There are a lot of crappy ****** shops out there. There should be reorts on the web that you can research and find a good reliable shop.
I'm not sure of your question but I think you want to know how do you replace to drive axle also known as the CV joint. To replace the CV joint jack up the side that broke and remove the wheel. Then remove the center nut that holds the CV joint to the hub. Put the car in gear or park so the hub will not turn why you do this or have someone put on the brake why you're doing this. Then remove the lower ball joint. Now pull the hub outward as you push the CV joint in. You may have to do some prying. Now using a pry bar snapped the other side of the CV joint out of the transmission. Reverse this to install new one. Good luck.
No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.
Do you have manual 1st? If so, can you shift through the gears...i.e.
manual 1st to manual 2nd then 'D' then 'OD'??? Only 1st and 2nd gears
use the forward sprag unless the LO/Rev clutch is engaged...i.e. 1st
and 2nd if in "drive". If you can shift threw the gears manually then,
yes, your forward sprag broke.
If no manual 1st then your sprag is not what broke. Sounds like you blew up the rear planet. If you pull the pan and find chunks of iron and steel, then that is probably what happened.
If you have reverse then it is not the pump. If the pump was bad you would have no line pressure
and it would slip in rev. or no rev. Not the beef sun shell either
because you have rev., a broken sun shell would cause no 2nd, 4th and
rev. gears. Either way the trans needs to come out and torn down and it will be easily found what went. Good luck and thank you for using Fixya.
Try jacking up the whole back end, disconnect the u-joint and see if you can move the rear end by turning the tires and turning the input shaft of the rear end. If the rear end is free you most likely have a problem with your transmission or transfer case. One of those could have locked up, locking up your rearend making it feel like a shudder in the rearend, then breaking the weak link between the two (the u-joint). Hope this helps.
Noise is coming from a dry u-joint and or the carrier bearing if equiped. Usually a u-joint "cherps" in reverse first then only gets worse with time. If it starts vibrating at highway speeds replace them immediately.
i have the same noise to my 2005 ford f-150 i beleive its a frozen bearing in the universal
does your truck also ingage its self into 4 wheel and make a loud noise only way to stop it is to stop the truck or shift into 4 high on the go only happens when it wants 3 times a day or not for a week
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