Texas state inspection failed

no engine size told.
well there are like vast causes of this
my engine starts but stalls.
even parked in a drive way , transmission in pARK?
The macro causes are 3. (100 yeas same gas/petrol) rules
bad spark
bad fueling (even bad fuel)
bad engine (cam belt slipped) this fail trumps above.
a tech tests them all in order.(based on age, and miles) saves time.
no miles on car stated 100k 200k, 300k miles or more?
when was the last tune up (filters all, spark and belts)
not told. and matters huge.
does it fail cold and hot engine both, or can never get it hot
hot = means normal engine temp, 180f to 200f
is RPM started up, cold 1500RPM or less (or happens too fast to tell)
does engine die just as you shift to DRIVE.?
failures parked are the most easy to find, (moving fast failures hard)
tell more and get more, tell all things the engine does, in all modes of use. AND WHEN AND HOW LONG IT TOOK TO FAIL.
or hot engines turned off will not staRT (BUT CRANKS FAST)?
THERE IS A STORY HERE BEGGING TO COME OUT BUT DID NOT.

THE MICRO LIST IF CAUSES ARE HUGE.
EVEN a bad wire vast.

how soon after it starts does it stall,
1second 1 hour ? what, ?
some engines fail hot soaked, starts cold, but never hot

WHY NOT GET A SHOP TO FIX IT. IN USA AN ASE SHOP !

NO CAR OR TRUCK TOLD AT ALL,
JUST AND ENGINE FLOATING IN SPACE., FUN TO SEE THAT!
NO PROBLEM TOLD JUST A HUNT,
REAL NAME IS
6D14 Mitsubishi Power Output : 160 PS / 2900 rpm
Water Cooled, 4 Cycled , Direct Injection
Torque : 432 Nm @1.600 rpm
Displacement : 6.557 cc
Cylinders : 6
Bore x Stroke : 110 x 115mm
Aspiration : Naturally Aspirated

NOT TOLD AT ALL WHY YOU HUNT THIS.
TO ADD A NEW RPM TACHOMETER ? GAUGE????????
NOT ONE TINY CLUE AS TO
WHAT'S UP DOC?

NO CAR TOLD
NO REASON STATED AT ALL FOR THIS HUNT.
FAIL I DO..

contact the dealer to see if your vehicle has the airbag recall. No the airbag light has nothing to do with the emissions.

wow jess, 14 posts all the same, a new record here, 4 was record.
you are a texas tornado. if ever.. there was.
why not tell is this.
1: what transmission, its and automatic right>
2: and what it does wrong, exactly and clearly
3: stated all things it does good and bad, ALL !
4: and does it fail hot and cold engine or both? key that is.
do all gears fail. and how.
slips, dead, jerky, flares?
in gear , can you make engine RPM go over 3000 rpm not moving
or with it slipping>????????
do you know the difference from a weak engine and a slipping trans or clutch? if not, ask that first.

get a radiator flush

as it gets warmer (the out door air or the coolant?)????

i restored one,
key on,, CEL glow? Y/N? it must , or fix that first.
start engine CEL off? if not pull the codes.
the paper clip tests
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html

your post is a BOG post, the engine has power loss.
right?
fails only COLD. out doors air temps. (how cold, -20F?)
in Nunavut Canada or in Texas? just a hint?
the 91 is a TBI EFI single injection system, its very simple
due to that fact. that is ,if a USA/CAN model others are CARB.
Canada had gray market cars in 91. too. so no location binds my hands tight.
ok pretend TBI:
there are only 3 true fail paths, (battery power at full 13.3v or higher to EFI system. at all times running, never below 10v.
1:bad engine,bad spark and bad fueling.

but since your car runs ok, HOT AIR.
then the engine may be good, compression over 150psi all times.
so that leaves what ? spark and fuel.
but first we do this ,since car fails cold coolant. as you imply.
1: does the engine coolant hit 180F or more and hold there.
it must. mine is 195F thermosat for better MPG. so .>.....
it must or the EFI system is pretty much useless.
this is always my first check and voltage at CIG lighter port.
same as EFI there.
is this a daily driver or some car took out of moth balls, for winter season. BAD FUEL?
ever do the 60k mile tune up.,?if not why not.
nobody pays a mech $500 labor to find a missing tune up. goes the logic... (and is the beef of all ASE mechs)

this is all wild guessing on my part. no location stated.
lets now pretend you are in Nunavut.
1: fresh winter fuel is #1, summer fuel will NOT vaporize there.
2: Nice fresh 195F thermostat the opens slow, and warms fast.
if not all bets off, in cold regions of world.
3: the ECT on this old car,, everyone ive tested (fully) was drifted.
this part must read the water (coolant) temps accuately at very cold temps.or the injector will not squirt enough.
it can flood or not be enough fuel at cold starts.
once started , the ECT must go to 300 ohms at 180F water temp
if not the ECU things ,its cold started and it floods and has horrid power. (HP)
if the coolant hits. 180f the ecu then enters hot mode.
hot run mode. and then uses the Oxy sensor to use perfect
air fuel ratios.
The map senors never fail but the hose to it does.
mine was melted, no , not heat melted, it was turning to sillyputty.
a sort of back slime,. (age issues)
can fix any 91 TBI, sure can.
there are other ways to fail this. (engine power)

http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html

and issue 2:
got a 3or 4speed tranny?
got a dash tachometer, all 4wd do.
you increase speed, and the tach moves up to high rpm
but speed does not TRACK that rpm rise.
this is called tranny Flare (end of life if repeated)
or if M/T bad slipping clutch.
as you see a full set of symptoms or and evidence is need.
good luck !

READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

Sell the car to somebody in FL, no inspection. The state realized it was a total waste of money. Anyway, it probably is the cat, you have 3 or 4 O2 sensors, maybe more. The cat is shot, Just take out the cat, park the car in the street, Call the police in the morning and tell them somebody stole your cat. happens all the time, they go right down the road and cut out 100 cats a night, for $50 each, I don't blame them. The insurance co will buy you a new one if you have the right coverage. If not, you will have to buy a new one, because you can't use an old one. But you can sell the old one on ebay for $50. They are expensive to buy. Hope this helps.

maybe i can help, the car has to be in a obd rhope this helpseadiness mode,thecar is probably not in this mode because it has not been driven enough or the(right way). you have do do a drive cycle to get the computer to go into obd readiness mode. also check pin #16 on obd connector tomake sure it has power. go to obd website for complete instructions on the DRIVE CYCLE it is rather long,

It is possible that the scan tool that the shops are using, is powered independently from the OBD11 connector, but the testing station relies on the connector for power and if the fuse for it is blown, they get no data and you fail.
I've attached a picture of the connector and where you should see 12 volts. Get a test light and check this pin, if you have no power between this pin and ground, you either have a blown fuse or a wiring problem