Brake light stays on after replacing brake line and bleeding

Because the vehicle has ABS and air in it, it must be bled from the caliper upwards using a pressurized bleeding bottle.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bleeding.htm

Some also need a scan tool according to some of the articles

This is specific to the Equinox

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/c5bdh-2012-chevy-equinox-soft-peddle-i-ve-replaced.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Chevrolet+Equinox%2C+bleeding+brake+lines

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To my knowledge, the porportioning valve can't be bled using the ABS bleed feature of a scan tool and has to be manually bled.

The brakes will need to be bled normally, and GM has a depressor tool specifically made to be installed on the valve while bleeding the brakes: J-39177.

You'll have to bleed the front and rear brakes as normal, but with the tool installed in order to remove the air trapped in the valve.

keep bleeding keep bleeding and check replacement lines for possible leaks

IT appears that only half of the master cylinder has bled properly. Try loosing the pipe nuts at the m/cyl and gently pump the pedal until you get fluid out of both lines. Then re-bleed the system starting at the longest line first ending at the shortest. Some master cylinders have a plunger fitted in the middle of the cylinder and this is there to still have brakes if a line fails. It may be necessary to remove it an plug the hole temporarily while you bleed the system as to stops one piston in the cylinder from moving and allowing proper bleeding

You still have air in the system. Bleed the system again.

did you try a brake booster ?

You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

bleed each separately

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

still got air bleed more