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Anonymous Posted on Oct 18, 2017

Heat not real hot until i rev engine

My truck had no heat. i flused out heater core and opened my resivior lid and squeezed the hoses.. seen some bubbles but i put lid back on and my truck has some heat now.. i rev the motor to around 2500 rpm and it gets hotter. let it back down to an idle and its not so warm. one hose going into heater core is hot but one coming out is just warm

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  • Contributor 25 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2017
H H R
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I had a 91 GMC 4.3 do the same thing. Liked to froze to ***** one winter. Found I had a air bubble (air lock) in the engine block and heater. It was a bear to get out. Finally installed back flush kit in the heater hose between engine and heater. Took cap off flush kit, pour coolant in through outlet till coolant ran through back to radiator. Replaced cap and started engine. Repeated again. Heater works as good as new. It's using the same principle as priming a gas powered water pump.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 48 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2008

SOURCE: 1996 GMC Suburban Rear Heater Core Hose Removal and Installation

if you can get me a picture i can help you out. blue_dragon45801@yahoo

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Fwayne

Rick Davis

  • 97 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 04, 2009

SOURCE: 95 gmc suburban heater hose

Sorry but its very likely those threads are still stuck in your engine. GM used Plastic, Steel and Cast parts, the most common being a steel that rusts away and gives you the result you now have. You might get lucky removing the broken remains yourself. If you can reach it, you may try an extractor or "easy-out" which is a reverse threaded tool to try and back out the part. however, these are never in an easy to reach location, and more careful extraction may be needed. In that case do not attempt it yourself unless you are very mechanically oriented. you can easily damage your engine block or intake (depending upon where its located). Also note: if the fitting is corroded, so will many other parts in your engine such as the freeze plugs and other fittings. Consider checking these items out as well before big problems arise.

-Good luck

Anonymous

  • 77 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2009

SOURCE: 1998 Dodge Durango no heat when using heater.

BLEND DOOR STUCK OR BROKEN. NEEDS TO REMOVE DASH AND HEATER/EVAP CORE BOS TO REPAIR REPLACE.

Anonymous

  • 713 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 GMC Suburban heater valve assembly

it is a type of quick disconnect like on the fuel line if you squeeze the taps on the clip the hose should come out pretty easy.

Anonymous

  • 2418 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2009

SOURCE: Poor coolant flow through heater core. Heater core

on some GMC models there is a valve that opens when you turn on the heat inside. It is called a heater control / actuator valve, it works off engine vacuum thru hoses connected under the dash, and going to the top of the valve. Now junk and crud and old rust will get in the valve and restrict it's flow. You will have to pull the valve off and clean it, but it is best to replace it, seeing it is hard to get all the junk out of it.
It looks like a L shape pipe with a hose on top & bottom, black plastic,and a smaller line on top mounted close to the wheel well about even with the exhaust manifold on the pass side. Drain the coolant, remove the valve and see if this is the cause, lots of gunk in the one hose. It is not real hard not real easy to replace this valve. Now if your truck does not have this valve check the pipe that the hose hooks to on top of the engine, remove the hose and see if a small screw driver will go down inside or if it is stopped up. .

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'01 forD F-150 heat blowing colD air

Check the cables on the heater case for operating properly is this a automatic temperature control? If so there's a square white box under the dash that controls the heater case doors did you feel the hoses are they hot? and if so check the heater hoses that go into the heater core on the firewall if one side is real hot but the other is cooler the core is clogged
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I only get like warm air on floor but no heat anywhere else. 2001 ford f150

Either your heater blend door is failing, your core is plugged, or you have poor coolant circulation. checking the temp of both heater hoses will rule out the core usually. (Warm engine, heater ON, both hoses should be HOT and near same temperature). If 1 hose is hot and the other cold, your core may be plugged. If both hoses are HOT, and still no heat inside, your heater box is likely not directing the warm air properly on the interior. If neither hose is hot or warm, and heater is ON, your heater control valve should be checked to make sure it is flowing coolant to the heater.

If all THAT seems to pass (heater valve definitely open) an d still low or not heat inside and both hoses the same, your water pump may not be making enough flow to feed the engine and the heater. Typically if this is the problem, holding the engineat high rev (3000+) for 5-10 minutes will cause the heater to warm up mostly, and then dropping the RPM to 1000 or 1500 you will feel it cool off rapidly. If that is the case, you will need cooling system repairs.
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Air lock cooling system

Not sure I follow your wording on the different temps. If the system is full of coolant and working correctly, the thermostat should open at 195 degrees which would be several miles down the road. Once the thermostat opens both radiator hoses should be warm. If the water pump is not working the engine will get hot very quickly.
Have you tried running without the thermostat to see what happens ?
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Is both heater hoses hot? Could need radiator and heater core flush. Water pump propellers could be detoriated. I have seen this on vehicles before. Just some ideas to look at.
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Heater core plug how to flush it grand am 1998

The core may be plugged, or it may have an air lock, or the core may be fine and the doors in the heater case may not be opening properly to pass heat.

With the engine at normal operating temperature, feel both the inlet and outlet core hoses at the firewall. If the coolant is circulating both hoses should be hot. If only one is hot, try cracking open the outlet line, with engine running, to get flow started from an air block. (The outlet line will run from the firewall to the front of engine near or at the water pump housing. The inlet for the heater comes off the top of engine from a head fitting and goes to the firewall.) If no flow results, the core may be plugged. To flush the core, take both hoses off at the firewall or off at where they fit on the engine, and put a garden hose into the outlet-flush it backwards-run until clear-let the water run to ground or use a catch can if able to. Some people use compressed air into the core instead of water flushing. Either way, you should see some sediment come out if it had any blockage. Once you get the heater core circulating, any further heater problems need to be addressed at the heater case. Make sure the temperature blend door can open and close-this door opens to let blower fan air pass across the heater core.
Good luck.
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1995 jeep cherokee heater problems

Get jeep up to operating temp
Turn on heater to max heat
Hood feel 2 heater core hoses goint into upper passenger side of engine compartment firewall.
They should feel too hot to hold
If it's not hot, could be 6 things
1. heater control valve is bad
2. Vacuum to heater control valve is bad
3. clogged heater core.
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad waterpump
6. Needs more coolant (check when system is cold)

Do these things:

1. Disconnect vacuum line from control valve and feel under valve to manually move valve to open position. This should let hot water flow through core. If you now have heat inside, replace the heater control valve. Or you can disconnect the plunger on the heater control that is hooked on to the silver bar on the bottom of it. With it disconnected you can manually move it to the open position. It will always remain on.

2. When system is cold, disconnect both heater hoses going to heater core. hook up a water hose to one side of heater core and flush out any gunk. When you get done, the water should run clear. If you see lots of gunk come out, that was probably the problem. Replacement is like $20-30

3. When system is hot and engine running, squeeze the upper radiator hose (using gloves) when you release it you should feel a surge of water. Proves your water pump is working. If no surge, check thermostat. If thermostat checks good, look at the weep holes at the bottom of the water pump for traces of antifreeze. If you see a trace or stream of coolant, indicates bad pump.

4. As far as testing the thermostat, watch as your engine heats up on the gauge. when it gets to a certain point you will see the temperature rise, then lower, then rise again. This means your thermostat opened properly, cooling the system temporarily, then heated it back up. Replacement is around $5

Try these and see how it goes.
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My heat will not blow warm air out of the vent.

RUN ENGINE UNTIL HOT, THEN FEEL THE HEATER HOSES IF ONLY ONE HOSE IS HOT THEN SESPECT A PLUGGED HEATER CORE. I HAVE SEEN THIS ON SEVERAL BLAZERS. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU ARE FULL OF COOLANT.
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My 2000 mercury sable the heater blows warm air not hot. the coolant has been checked and the thermostat has been changed still no heat. what could be the problem

Have you checked for air in the system ? Some of the V-6 engines have an air bleeder on top of the intake manifold to release trapped air. What you do is fill the rad to the top , start the cold engine and open the bleeder untill fluid comes out meaning the air has been vented. With air in the system the heater does not transfer heat efficently. You can also vent an engine by squeezing the upper radiator hose with the engine off and cold. Never open a hot system. The squeeze method is easy. With cold engine remove the cap and fill the radiator almost to where it will spill over. Then slowly squeeze the upper radiator hose and you will see the air escape. When you release the prussure you will see the level drop slightly. Now if you do not have air in that system you will need to check the heater core flow. With everything closed up and full start the engine and let it warm up. Now feel the two hoses in and out of the heater core where it goes thru the firewall in one is cold and one is warm then your heater core is plugged. You can try a flush at this point but it usually needs to be replaced. Thanks for asking at Fixya.com.
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Defrost will not come out vents

Check your coolant level first. Next check your heater control valve. With engine at operating temp and heater on high, do this:

1. Heater hose from water pump should be hot (if not, water pump may be dead or thermostat is stuck closed)
2. Heater hose from thermostat housing should be hot (if not, thermostat may be stuck closed or water pump is dead)
3. Heater hose going to heater core should be hot ( if not, heater control valve is not getting vacuum from heater control unit, or valve is broken)
4. Heater hose returning from heater core should be hot (if not, heater core is blocked, undo both hoses to core and flush with water hose until clear)

Test thermostat: with cold engine cranked, watch water temp gauge. As it gets hotter and hotter, when the thermostat opens, the temp should drop suddenly and then go back up.

Test water pump: with engine at operating temp. Squeeze top radiator hose tight, when you release it, you should feel/hear a surge of water. It is much like when you pinch a water hose closed and release it.

Test vacuum from heater control unit to heater control valve: undue vacuum line from control valve. It should have a vacuum when pressed against you skin in addition to releasing the actuating arm on the control valve.

If there is no vacuum, a quick fix will be to disconnect the plastic actuator from the silver arm on the heater valve. This will let the hot water to always flow to your heater core.
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