R&R rotors and calipers on 2005 Ford 500 to do brake job

yes baby it to him and replace both calipers and rotors as they will work better with your new brake pads. Do Not Do a half a job when it comes to brakes. its your family you are dealing with. calipers are cheap rotors are cheaper and pads are also cheap. its 3 hours labour to do a complete front brake job and rear brakes take 2 hours. with new shoes turn drums replace wheel cylinders and new rear brake hardware price in Canadian for front brakes under 400 price for rear under 250 American parts prices slightly different but labour times the same

Just give it a good hit, with a big hammer, it should come lose !!

Ranjit,

I have the same problem with my 2008 Hummer H3. I had the front and rear rotors resurfaced. I am now thinking of getting the rotors replaced with bigger more durable rotors. Solution about the sticking brake caliper sounds about right if you hear a grinding noise as you drive without even touching the brake pedal.

Amardeep

. Removal & Installation Front Front brake caliper & rotor removal/installation

Rear Rear brake caliper & rotor removal/installation

probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.

scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.

but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.

POSSIBLY CHEAP PAD'S AND ROTORS WARPED FROM EXTREME HEAT EITHER FROM PADS OR HARD STOPS FREQUENTLY. I SUGGEST IF MONEY IS A PROBLEM GO TO THE DEALER AND GET MOTORCAFT PADS,A BIT CHEAPER THAN PREMIUM AND IF ROTORS ARE TOO THIN REPLACED THEM. ROTORS WILL GET WARPED AGAIN IF TOO THIN. HAVE A REPUTABLE SHOP DO A SLOW CUT,NOT FAST CUT ON ROTORS. SERIOUSLY,VEHICLE'S THESE DAY'S DO NOT WORK WELL WITH AFTERMARKET PART'S. FORD HAD DESIGNED THIER BRAKE SYSTEM TO EUROPE'S DESIGN TO OPERATE A CERTAIN WAY AND ABILITY. IT WILL BE COMPROMISED WITH AFTERMARKET PARTS. LOOK FOR SPECIALS AT DEALERSHIP, CHEAPER THAN YOU THINK FOR A BRAKE JOB THESE DAY'S WITH A WARRANTY ON THE JOB!

On my Chevy, I use a prybar between the rotor and the caliper to retract it a little, once it's off, I use a 6-in. C-clamp to fully retract it.
Make sure the reservoir doesn't overflow!

Try buying top quality rotors, Raybestas, Wagner, or Bendix. Do not buy second line rotors. Buy the top line, OE quality pads. Make sure that when the rotors are installed that you clean out behind where the rotor mounts and the studs. All rust, dirt and debris needs to be removed. When you mount the wheels back on the vehicle, they need to be torched back to ford specifications, follow the specs to the letter. These trucks are VERY picky when it comes to brakes and skipping just one of the steps above will lead to trouble.

I had the same problem with mine at about 20000 miles,took it to dealer and they told me it was a common problem for the mounting bushing for the caliper to go bad.Dealer replaced them and less than 5000 miles later had same problem,they ordered new brackets with new bushings to mount calipers and have had no problems since at 41000 and still have original pads and rotors have not been turned. Don't know if they will do anything after warrantee but mounting bushings are easy to replace and not expensive.

Did you check the rotors to see if they were cracked or 'thin' ? Rotors sometimes get really thin with use.And they can crack. Or as in one case that I know of there was sand between the rotor and the pads. The pads were also new. Removed the gravelly sand and they worked fine.