I've replaced the starter on it and it was running for a while, admittedly it was running poorly. On my way back from work, coming down the highway it all of the sudden stopped getting power from the motor. I thought the transmission had dropped out of it. I got it towed back to my house and the driver had me explain it to him. He said just by the sound it was making and the way I described the problem it was most likely the timing chain. My question is, could it be the distributor cap (if it has one?)or is it definitely the timing chain?
If the engine cranking rpms are faster than normal, I would suspect no cylinder compression, because the valves don't close, so check the timing chain.
I'm talking about engine cranking rpms not the starter motor spinning because it doesn't contact the flywheel.
SOURCE: 1988 caprice classic turns over but wont start.
there are many things that could be wrong... evn though this caprice does not have points it does have a cap mounted coil that could be bad, also under neath the dist. is wuts called a pickup coil this coul also be bad. try a simple tune up first..plugs wires cap and rotor, new cap doesnt come with coil so you have to swap your old one into the new cap. getting a new coil wouldnt be to bad of an idea
SOURCE: transmission slips and reverse stopped working
you need your transmission rebuilt the clutches are slipping
SOURCE: 96 4.3L Vortec S-10 Blazer died while driving
I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.
After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."
My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."
CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.
These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.
Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.
Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.
The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.
The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.
Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.
The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.
Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.
These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.
Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.
(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.
Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.
Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.
You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.
The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.
The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.
78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
19 19 49
vin
ECU
30 Block
code
Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.
Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.
Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.
If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.
"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."
Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.
How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.
IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.
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