Question about 2004 Ford Mustang
How hard is it to put a new pinion seal int he rear of this car? Also, could I possibly need the crush sleeve replaced? The car shifts okay.....Thanks
This is for 2003 7.5 inch ring gear axle.
SECTION 205-02A: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 7.5-Inch Ring Gear 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Drive Pinion Flange and Drive Pinion Seal
Special Tool(s) 2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or equivalent Holding Fixture, Drive Pinion FlangeRear differential on a 2004 Mustang gt leaking flu - s3b%7eus%7een%7efile=st1862a.gif%7egen%7eref.gifes/s3b%7eus%7een%7efile=st1862a.gif%7egen%7eref.gif" alt="s3b%7eus%7een%7efile=st1862a.gif%7egen%7eref.gif" class="h_mi" />Installer, Drive Pinion Flange
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or equivalent
Posted on May 26, 2009
Most pinion nuts don't have a published torque spec. they are to be tightened until the pinion requires a specified torque to spin with the wheels and brake drums removed. Often times, when a rebuild is not performed, it should be torqued to the same preload as before the work. autozone.com has alot of good repair info and diagrams.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
1st, check to see ifthe vent is plugged on the Differental????? This will make the oil to come out when the oil heats up amd makes gases & pressure. The gases & pressure has to go somewhere!!!! Did the person put a new Crush sleeve, to take the slack out of the pinion, which will makes to pinion move from side to side. Replacing it is no problem. Just time! Gear oil, Seal, Gasket, & Crush sleeve. Place everything on the ground in the order that you take it off. Also check upper & lower bearing & races to see if they need to be replaced. This will also make slack, which will mess up your seal, and star leaking again. Good luck,and take your time.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
The differential will have a plug in the driver's side of the housing that is removed with a 3/8" drive ratchet or square drive. Be sure you know what type of fluid is recommended for your vehicle. It will depend on whether it is a locking differential or standard.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Put it together without the seal in place, you may have to take it apart again. You want to have about 8-10 inch pounds of preload on new bearings, less on used probably just a light drag. I recommend using a 3/4 in drive socket and ratchet and you have to hold the yoke somehow, a pipe wrench works but it's kind of crude. Put a little oil on the bearings and on the threads, if you have a new nut, save it for your final assembly. It's best to have helper because you really have to pull on the wrench to get the crush started. Once the sleave starts crush it gets easier, tighten the nut until the the end play is gone, check it frequently and spin it occasionaly as you tighten the nut. Once the free play is gone and the pinion still spins freely carefully continue to tighten the nut until you feel drag on the shaft. You need a dial type inch pound torque wrench to check the preload not a click type. If you don't have a torque wrench you can do it by feel it should take a little effort to turn the shaft you should be able to turn it by hand. Once you confident you have the right preload you may want to put the ring gear in and check the backlash and wear patern. If you are just replacing the bearings you shouldn't have any trouble. If you are changing the gears you could run into all kinds of problems and may need to seek a pro to help. If the gears are not set up right they will make noise and the gears won't last. Once you sure you have everthing right remove the pinion nut and yoke and put in the new seal. Clean the oil from the threads with brake parts cleaner and put some blue lock tight on the thread. Install the yoke and the new nut using care not to crush the sleave anymore but, at the same time make sure it's tight. I hope this helps, good luck.
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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