Master cylinder gone trying to find out if it is a difficult to change myself so just looking for some advice Thanks guys
Not sure for a subaru.. but generally speaking this is what needs to be done.
The MC (Master Cylinder) is held on with 2 nuts typically.
BEFORE removing them, the engine should be off, then pump the brake pedal till it gets real hard (to deplete the vacuum in the vacuum booster).
There should be a wire hooked to the Fluid level switch (FLI) in the reservoir - unhook this.
You then need to remove the brake lines from the MC (suck out the fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster first to reduce the amount of fluid running out of the MC).
Then remove the 2 nuts that hold it to the vacuum booster and you can remove the entire MC.
Put the new MC on, tighten the 2 nuts, hook up the brake lines, and connect the FLI.
Then fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid and fully bleed the brake system.
Optional: You can bench bleed the MC before installing it, if you have plugs to keep the outlets closed while you install the MC.
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt this if you are not sure how to bleed the brake system. It will not perform properly unless you do a good job bleeding out all the air!
SOURCE: 1999 Subaru Brake problem-master cylinder/power booster?
Hi there. If you have determined that the brake system doesnt have any leaks in the lines or at the calipers or brake cylinders, I would start by checking for vaccum to the brake booster first. There should be a large vaccum hose going from the power booster down to the top back of the engine. If this got unhooked or broken, your brakes will feel like old manual brakes rather than power. Make sure you have good suction by unhooking one end of this line with the engine running and place your hand over it to see if it has suction. GT would be the sporty version of the car and usualy has an emblem either on the fender or rear bumper saying GT. If you dont see this you probably have the L series.
SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
SOURCE: 2003 town and country brake problem
Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.
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