Question about 1996 Honda Accord

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1996 honda will not start under 60 degrees

When it is warm outside it starts right up.when its below 60 i have to crank it over several times if it starts and warms up i can shut it off and it start right up. but when it cools back down i have to start all over.my battery is good as well as my starter.

Posted by mike on

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  • Honda Master
  • 20,706 Answers

Tune it up. (fresh spark parts work best in cold and for sure damp wheather.
fresh gas?
leaking injectors?
isc stuck closed, and rpm low, hot?

the ecu, anticipates the next cold start,
it knows how much to open the iSC valve, to get a good start cold
and if colder to day, it opens more. (math)
if it (ISC) is gummed up,fas all do, it cant start right
so next time, try %10 throttle, starting, emulating a good ISC.
see?

Posted on Jan 07, 2014

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  • Honda Master
  • 992 Answers

There could be many reasons for starting problem, when cold. The starting in the gasoline engines depend on:
- The Cranking speed of the starter motor (250 rpm)
- The ignition system. (Spark plugs, spark plugs gap too wide, high tension cords, distributor assembly, rotor, ignition switch, EFI system)
- The fuel system (fuel pump pressure, fuel filter, injectors, regulating valve, vacuum hoses)
- Cylinder compression. (Valve clearance, engine valves, piston rings)
As you have mentioned that the starting is hard when the engine/ or outside climate is cold, I think that the valve clearance need to be checked and adjusted, if required. The valve clearance data is as under:
- Valve clearance Inlet = 0.20 - 0.22 mm (Cold)
- Valve clearance Exhaust = 0.22 - 0.25 mm (Cold)

Posted on Jan 07, 2014

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    _-__-___-_ Jan 08, 2014

    the 60k service covers all that an more , do the tuneup , can be bad gas, weak compresion, bad spark, leaking egr vavle ( they stick cold) sticking cold ISC. or leaking injectors parked a long time the cylinder fill . and bam hard stats. and more... start with a tune up and work to harder problems,

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3 Related Answers

dustyboner

alex metro

  • 364 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 honda civic wont start...

try checking the main relay



view larger picture

3470075.jpg

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: car won't start when it's hot outside

My daughter's 1991 Honda Accord did the same thing. I discovered that the main relay had to be replaced. Apparently the solder used in the original main relay was poor and would actually "soften" in the heat and cause a disconnection. When the cabin temperature dropped, the solder would cool and reconnect. Anyway, replacing the main relay worked. My daughter's car has not had this problem since.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

jturcotte

Jeffrey Turcotte

  • 8984 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1991 honda

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions--specific instructions are pasted below from Autozone.com. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

Use a test light to check for power to the coil on the black wire with a yellow stripe--see procedure below and other tests you can run. You will need a volt-ohm meter to run most of these tests.

The system used on 1990-95 Accords and 1989-95 fuel injected Preludes uses the distributor components to signal the engine computer. The ECU triggers the spark through the igniter unit and coil. This spark timing is controlled by the computer as an integrated function of the fuel management system. The distributor contains a crankshaft angle sensor and a No. 1 Cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor. Using these and other electrical inputs, the computer controls spark timing electrically.

1990-91 ACCORD
See Figure 6

  1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
  2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
  3. Switch the ignition ON . Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the igniter and the ignition switch.
  4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test the ignition coil.
  5. Turn the ignition OFF . Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire between the igniter and the ECU.

jturcotte_639.gif


Fig. Fig. 6: Terminal identification on 1990-91 Accords

  1. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the igniter.
  2. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.
Coil test:
1990-91 ACCORD

See Figure 16
  1. The ignition coil is contained within the distributor. With the ignition OFF , remove the distributor cap.
  2. Remove the screws securing the black/yellow wire and white/blue wires from the terminals. The black/yellow wire is connected to the primary positive terminal and the white/blue wire is connected to the primary negative terminal.
  3. Measure resistance between the terminals. Resistance should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
  4. Measure the resistance between the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. Resistance should be 12,800-19,200 ohms.
jturcotte_640.gif

Fig. Fig. 16: Coil terminal designation on 1990-91 Accords

  1. All test conditions must be met. If any test condition is not satisfied, the coil must be replaced.

jturcotte_641.gif

Posted on Dec 27, 2010

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