No power at the new pump, cranks ,no spark,fuses and relays are good and the odometer says no bus with key on engine off it has coil packs and is multi point injection

OK, SO ENGINE IS DEAD, CRANKS BUT IS DEAD
AND now doing pump tests wrong. (as most do)
the relay has 4 pins.
to test the relay you must crank the dead engine.
and all fuses good first.
do not try to test the relay for the short prime pulse or go slowly mad. (2 man job and slow meter you will fail)
prime pulse 1second long, some even disable prime too cold outside, so I never trust the prime.
crank the engine.
2 man crank the dead engine (my guess what's up)
the contractor in the relay 2 pins ,one pin is 12vdc full time key on and 2nd one goes to 12vdc when relay energizes. (and pump gets 12vdc to it cranking.
the RELAY coil does that. in the relay.
the RELAy coil has 2 pins, 1 on this truck 4.3 is grounded hard, other coil is PCM
and is 12vdc from PCM, to coil 0v coil is dead.

that is how it works and how to test it correctly
learn the PCM cuts fuel 4 or more ways,


the facts are (have schematic up now)real.
ECM fuse B not blown or FP relay be dead.
PCM C2 pin 9 runs the relay coil
fuel pump not dead or its ground rusty.G402
Ok other coil pin on relay is grounded G102.
so he PCM sends 12vdc to the relay C2-B7
if not the relay will be dead.

fuse B is hot all the time so super easy to check
12vdc both ends of fuse is good for sure cranking
all fuses to PCM must be good.
battery voltage cranking is near 11v below 10v bad things happen.

if you scan the PCM it may tell you why it fails
why not scan any modern car first?

best on any dead engine, (but cranks fast)
all fuses good
scan it cranking
the check spark first not fuel fuel first
cant burn gasoline, with no spark.
the PCM(ecu) cuts fuel injectors if spark is detected by PCM bad.
the PCM cuts spark and fuel if crash SRS sensors tripped.
the PCM cuts fuel for other reasons even tps bad.
The pump is last. to test./ on any dead EFI engine
and do so cranking.
use a voltmeter to find it.
the pump is bad if 11vdc makes it to pump actual
cranking, and rail is 0psi.
if the FPR fails 2 ways stock closed PSI is 2 times normal and floods, engine if FPR is stuck open
PSI is 1/2 normal or less and engine dead or starves for fuel, weak engine and or idles a bit and stalls
see why I asked whats up? no told./
the real deal
my generic schemo. but is true.

no spark at all spark plugs and the main spark COIL 1 terminal?
1994 is old car, old old Chevy OBD1 PCM.
check all fuses first
then see the service manual, to do the DLC jumper wire trick
to get the FLASH codes out of the PCM.(ECM)
steps
The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector or Data Link Connector (DLC)
jumper A to B
KEY ON, not started
The Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light should be flashing.
if CEL lamp bulb is dead,it must be replaced.in IP cluster
The code(s) stored in memory may be read through counting the flashes of the dashboard warning lamp. The dash warning lamp should begin to flash Code 12.
Code 12 NOT and error, all others seen are DTC errors.
if none happen crank engine for 5 seconds,release key see errors now.
42/43 code bad spark see manual
21./22 bad TPS

not told you is what the big spark coil does all by itself
if your Distrib has HEI, the coil main HV is buried inside..
tricky to test.
if spark really dead. the whole rebuilt distrib is best.cure.
NO ENGINE of 5 told and is an Engine question, above is 94 generic.
here are 4 gas engines then with external spark coil pack
we take a new spark wire and plug.
connect it to HVcoil pack tower lugs.
ground the spark plug shell
and crank test the coil,for spark if fails
bad fuses
bad dizzy
bad ecm
or bad coil and is less cost than all but fuses.

Check the ASD relay in under hood fuse/ relay box. ASD stands for automatic shut down relay. Powers up pcm ,fuel injectors and ignition system an O2sensor heaters .crank over the car an check for power at O2sensor heater fuse in the underhood fuse box ,no power means bad relay !

I'll try to help you, John.
For spark: If your spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor are good, check the coil. Take off the negative battery cable. Use an ohmmeter and check resistance between the coil primary positive terminal and the frame of the coil-ohmmeter should show infinite resistance, if not, replace coil. Put ohmmeter positive lead on coil primary positive terminal, and ohmmeter negative lead on coil primary negative terminal-resistance should be zero or nearly zero, if not, replace coil. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to the negative primary terminal and ohmmeter positive lead to the high voltage terminal of the coil. Ohmmeter should not show infinite resistance, if it does, replace coil.
If coil is good (or has been swapped), check that coil primary has power to it with key on. If it does, and no spark, the problem could be the ignition module or the pickup coil. The ignition module should be mounted with the ignition coil. The pickup coil is inside the distributor-this pickup coil is what tells the computer (ecu) the crankshaft position, so is critical for spark timing.

For the pump: the fuel pump relay is in the power distribution box under the hood. When the ignition switch's run wire energizes the relay's coil, power is sent to the pump. You could check for a signal on the pump wire at the tank, with the engine cranking Should be a steady signal then. If not, pull the relay out to check that the power feed for the pump is still there. The power to the relay comes from Fuse link G, a 20 amp rated green fuse link. It is hot at all times, so check for a power signal on one of the relay terminals with key off. One terminal should have power. If not, check fuse link G. If it does have power, put relay back in and have someone cycle the key-relay should click-may feel or hear it. If nothing, try a different relay. If relay was good, but no power to pump, pull relay and check terminals that relay plugs into: with key held in crank, two terminals at relay should have power-the power feed from fuse link G, and now the ignition switch signal to the relay coil side. If all checks out, probably a bad pump. If you checked for power at the tank with the engine cranking, and did have power, that is for sure a pump that needs replacing.
Good luck.

Begin by checking fuses. Ignition, efi, fuel pump fuses. When key turned to on, do the warning lights and gauges work? That verifies switch has power and is sending power out. With key on, the coil primary wire to coil packs should have voltage.

No spark and no gas? Fuel pump fuse good? I think I would use a test light or multimeter to check that fuel pump fuse terminal has power to it with key on. If that's good, pull connector off at fuel tank and check for a voltage signal on fuel pump wire when the engine is cranking-if good signal, fuel pump needs taken out for replacement or inspection. If no signal check that fuel pump relay has power to it. With key off, pull the relay and check that one terminal has power to it-the feed wire for the pump. If no power signal at all, check maxi fuses or fusible links for a failure.

Check fuses first, but could be needs new CPU

is the fuel filter clogged?

When you turn the key on you should beable to hear the fuel pump come on. Other than that you have a fuel pressure test port, looks just like a tire valve stem get a little probe press the valve after cranking fuel should come out strongly and not dribble out. If is doesnt seem to be firing your going to have check the coil pack for spark from the coil pack take one plug wire out and put it in a position that as you crank the vehicle you will be able to see spark jump or even hear give it a 1/4 air gap from its connection. If you dont have spark and your timing chain isnt broken you need to check for power the choice of tool is a test light.or volt meter. If you dont have either test tool we will go by sound when you turn the key on the engine fuse box has relays do you hear them click. That click noise will be fuel pump relay and PCM relay for power inpect those relays for corrode connections you mainly have a power problem and inspect for proper ground a missing ground can also cause the ECM to not fire the coils

Did you check your coil pac? This supplys power to all parts of your auto. I would check and see if your getting fire comming from your coil , Good luck to you.

You need to find out if the problem is related to spark, fuel, or air. First thing - when you turn the key to full electrical power (right before you crank the engine), do you hear the fuel pump kick on? It's a slight whirring sound behind you, and lasts about two seconds. If not, check the fuel pump relay (blue relay in the driver's kickpanel), and check the fusebox to be sure the fuse isn't blown.

If you hear the pump come on, chances are the rest of your fuel system is probably OK (the Z isn't known for common failures of the fuel pressure regulator or leaking injector O-rings). Time to turn to the spark side of the equation.

Unbolt a coilpack (look between the runners of the intake manifold and remove the two 12mm bolts you see, which secure a bracket - that's the coil pack bracket). Pull the coil pack out and remove the spark plug. Put the plug into the coil pack, make sure the coil pack connector is plugged in, and have someone crank the key for just a second, while you hold the coil pack with the spark plug ground touching the manifold. If you have spark, you'll see it flash. If you don't see a spark, there's a very good chance that the power transistor unit (PTU) is dead. This was the one and only recall on the Z32. It's a small black box on the front of the engine, passenger side, bolted to the upper timing cover. It has a 6-7 wire harness coming into one side, and going out the other side. If it dies, your car won't start until it's replaced.

If neither spark nor fuel is the problem, then clean or replace the mass airflow sensor. Also, have the cam position sensor checked (this is the round metal device on the driver's side timing belt cover) - that thing is the root of all Z evil and can cause many different problems with these cars.