There is a high-pitched squeal or chirp when I have the defroster on. Not your typical belt slipping squeak. Occasionally after driving with the defroster on, I can smell something hot, like burning rubber. Can this be resolved by a new belt or could something be wrong with the pulleys?
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Common Car Noises and Their Likely Causes
Clicking noise while turning
Starts faint, gradually becomes more noticeable until very loud
Failed outer CV joint (constant velocity joint) due to torn boot (most likely) or old age
Replace either the whole axle assembly (recommended) or the outer CV joint
Water pump noises
Difficult to diagnose because of water pump's location
Noise usually caused by damage to the bearings in failed water pump
Only cure is replacing it. If possible do it at the same time as a timing belt replacement to cut down on labor costs
Squeak or squeal from an engine belt
Loud, high-pitched squeak or squeal
Belts either need adjustment or replacing
If belts only squeak when damp, they probably just need adjustment. If they squeak constantly, they probably need to be replaced
Exhaust heat shield noises
Rattle that you hear when car is idling
Damaged heat shield
Replace heat sh
it depends what kind of noise, if its a licking noise the pulleys that the belt is being turned by could be bad (belt tensioner pulley ,Idler pulley etc.) if its a squealing sound like a high pitched whistle or like a rubber heal screeching on a tile floor constantly the belt is no good there is fabric on the inside of the belt and when it wears away you will get the chirp or squealing /screeching sound from this. inspection of that belt will tell you look at the grooves if looks like shiny rubber you found it if it doesn't and the fabric is there then a pulley is the problem bad bearing can make the belt slip resulting in the squealing good luck LATER MAN!
If this is a high pitched squealing sound, then check the condition and adjustment of your engine's rubber drive belts. If these have become stiff or worn, then they can begin to cause this noise, especially when starting from cold.
excess mechanical drag from the pump can cause the belt to slip and squeal, but before focusing on the pump I'd check the condition, tension and alignment of the belt. I might even try cleaning all the pulleys with an aerosol brake cleaner and install a new belt, particularly if the current one has more than 50,000 miles on it. It might be that the squeal is coming from or caused by a different belt-driven accessory. A more typical noise from a power-steering pump is a high-pitched whine, not a squeal. Usually, if the steering wheel is stationary, meaning that the steering rack is not "asking" for assistance from the high-pressure fluid from the pump, there's little or no noise
The surpinetine belt is slipping on the alternator. A high pitch squeal can sometimes also be heard, because rain water is making the worn belt slip. So replace the belt first. Other possibilities are the idler tensioner might be weak, or worst case is the alternator itself. Also check if your battery cable connections are clean and tightened, because the battery may not be getting a proper charge.
Shortly after replacing the serpentine belt in my lancer, the same thing happened. It is NOT the timing belt. Belts squeal when they slip. If your timing belt slipped it would cause your car to run funny.
have somebody check the belt for wear (or do it yourself), replace if necessary. If it doesn't need replacement, just tighten it.
If you have the 4cyl engine that I have, the tightening is kind of a pain in the ****. Not a great design by mitsubishi. There's a pulley near the front right corner of the engine in front of the alternator. the belt should be running around this pulley GROOVE SIDE OUT. This is the tension pulley.
To tighten: 1) Lightly loosen the bolt in the center of the pulley (slightly loosen, DO NOT REMOVE). 2) Under that pulley there's another bolt. You can see that the bolt goes through a piece of metal attached to the back of the pulley. Figure out which way you need to turn the bolt to move the pulley toward the front of the car. (i don't remember if it's right hand thread, or left hand) This puts extra tension on the belt. You probably don't need much. Over tensioning the belt can cause pulley bearing failure. If you haven't done this work before, ask someone for help. It's better to tighten a little bit, a few times rather than overtighten once. 3) Don't forget to ReTighten the bolt in the center of the pulley.
If there's lots of cracks and pieces missing on the ribs or grooves of the belt you should replace it first.