The engine wont start battery charged all electrics working.Originally the engine wouldnt turn off(faulty barrel)A mechanic took of the casing and the engine could be turned on and off with a screwdriver(to get me home)An autoelectrician came and removed the clifford alarm(which i asked him to do)He couldnt get the engine to start(no starter motor noise etc)And said it was a problem with the relays,but he thought a signal was being sent to the starter motor,but he hadnt got a manual The car is an automatic.
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Even a relativly new battery can develope a bad or dead cell. Does the engine spin over when ignition is attempted? Easiest way to check this is to load test the battery. Any major auto parts dealer( Advance, Autozone, NAPA, Oriellys,etc.) can test this at no charge. Also use a voltmeter to test the alternator output. Most alternators put out between 13.5-13.8 volts at the battery. A faulty alternator can cause the engines electrical system to pull voltage from the battery until it (Battery)gets down to around 10 volts at which time the voltage is to low to support the needs of the system and the vehicle simply cuts off and will not restart as described in the first part of your post. Hope this helps.
There can be so many issues and unless a code check is confirmed with more inputs from your end including the battery condition, if the engine is cranking or also if the scheduled services were in order.
Try jump starting, see if it starts then. Lights, radio, etc.. don't draw nearly the amps that your starter does. Batteries don't always give warning when then decide to "go south". If you can get it started by jump starting, stop by a local Autozone, Advance, etc.. auto parts store and have them do a charging system test and to load test your battery. They offer this service for FREE
Another Note: When was timing belt last replaced? If it's a 325 of that year it should be done every 60k (If it's 318 ignore the above belt issue)
The battery could still be bad and if you don't have a totally good battery in the car it won't run right. Take to one of the parts stores and they can check it for you for free. Probably as simple as a battery.
This is not a sloution but i had a similar problem about 6months ago.
I left the lights on which drained the battery, road assistant came to booost start it, there was power but no turn over, not even a clunk of the engine trying ( all electrics are working and lights in the dash are live), tried a new battery same situation,
I took it to BMW independant specialist who put it down to a ECU fault , i was duped into having a new key made as i had no spare as it was believed the immobilizer had locked the car up so to speak, this didnt work , so the mech ordered a new ecu, and had it reprogrammed and it turned over first time, It was bumpy idling at cold start cos i had my original dead battery but after a day it ran like it used to sweet as a nut.
it was expensive 500 quid to put right, but then you may have better luck with your mechanic.