The rear 2 bolts (top & bottom) on the passenger side exhaust manifold rusted off flush with the manifold on my 1999 F150 94.6 V8) 4x4. I tried a easy out on the top one (the only one I can really get to) and broke it off in the bolt. It addition, the bottom bolt is "behind" the frame, so pretty tough to get to. I've narrowed my options to 1) weld a nut to the remaing bolt and hope for the best or 2) remove the manifold to get to the remaining stud with vice grips. I'm assuming with this approach I'll break off some of the remaining bolts.
My question is how to get to the bottom studs. Do you have to remove the engine mounts and lift the side of the motor or ? If so, what all do I need to lossen/remove and be concerned about?
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3,433 Answers
Re: Broken manifold bolts / manifold removal
Whatever it takes, but make sure you soak some penetrating oil oi wd40 on others to avoid any more being broken. Pulling the manifold is the safest and quickest way. With it out of the way, you'll have someting on the broken bots, now studs to work with. Always drill a broken stud or bolt clean through. Penetrating oil can work from both ends and a broken easy out can be driven in far enough to work arounf -Good Luck, force nothing, Tap stud and apply only stesdy even presure when extracting.
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I suggest you use all new exhaust manifold hardware and torque new bolts to 20 Ft Lbs. 4.5L and 4.9L Engines RIGHT Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Disconnect the oxygen and coolant temperature sensors. Remove the catalytic converter-to-AIR pipe clip bolt. Remove the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the converter air pipe bracket from the stud and remove the converter-to-manifold exhaust pipe. Support the engine cradle with screw jacks and remove the rear cradle bolts. Loosen the front cradle bolts and slightly lower the Engine cradle. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, the AIR pipe, and the manifold. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: Install the exhaust manifold and replace the AIR pipe. Tighten the manifold mounting bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (21-24 Nm). Install the manifold-to-converter exhaust pipe and replace the converter air pipe bracket to the stud. Raise the Engine cradle and install the rear cradle bolts. Tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Lower the vehicle. Replace the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Replace the converter air pipe to AIR pipe clip bolt. Connect the coolant temperature and oxygen sensor connectors. Replace the exhaust crossover pipe. Replace the air cleaner and connect the negative battery cable. Start the Engine and check for leaks.
the manifold will have to be pulled off
rusted bolts and nuts can be removed with the application of heat on the nut bolt followed quick cooling with wd -40
it breaks the rust seal
use rust penetrant liberly
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the cooling system.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableExhaust manifoldAlternatorWater crossoverIntake manifoldValve coverTiming coverSecondary camshaft drive chainPower steering return hose retaining bolt from the cylinder head3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head10 M11 internal drive cylinder head boltsCylinder head and gasket.
Clean the head mating surfaces.
To install:
Fig. Left cylinder head bolt torque sequence-4.6L engine
Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees
Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees
Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees)
Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Install or connect the following:
Power steering return hose retaining bolt to the cylinder head and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Secondary camshaft drive chainTiming coverValve coverIntake manifoldWater crossoverExhaust manifoldNegative battery cable
Change the oil and filter.
Fill the cooling system.
Right Side
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the cooling system.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableExhaust manifoldWater crossoverIntake manifoldValve coverTiming coverSecondary camshaft drive chainElectrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensorNut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder headBolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder headBolt attaching the right transaxle mount bracket to the cylinder headBolt attaching the rear transaxle brace to the transaxleNuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder headRear transaxle brace3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head10 M11 internal drive cylinder head boltsCylinder head and gasket
Clean the head mating surfaces.
To install:
Fig. Right cylinder head bolt torque sequence- 4.6L engine
Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees.
Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees.
Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees).
Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Rear transaxle brace over the studs located at the rear of the right cylinder headNuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head, looselyBolts attaching the rear transaxle braces to the transaxle and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Nuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head and tighten 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Electrical connector to the ECT sensorBolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder head and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)Nut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder head and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)Secondary camshaft drive chainTiming coverValve coverIntake manifoldWater crossoverExhaust manifoldNegative battery cable
Before removing any component of the exhaust system, always squirt a liquid rust dissolving agent onto the fasteners for ease of removal..
Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts.
Support the catalytic converter, then disconnect the pipe from the converter. Remove the pipe.
Remove the exhaust gaskets.
To install:
Be sure to use all new gaskets when required. Assemble the system, check the clearance and tighten the bolts to about 15-30 ft. lbs. (20-41 Nm).
Fig. 1: Front exhaust pipe connection common on vehicles with the catalytic converter not included
All clamps should be tightened to about 18-25 ft. lbs. (24-34 Nm). Do overtighten the clamps. If pipes become dented they can leak.
The starter install is fairly simple and will require a 13mm socket and a long extension. First get the car securely on jack stands or ramps so your have access to the bottom of the car and engine. lying on your back with your head towards the rear of the vehicle (approximately center of the car) you can look up past the exhaust pipe and CV axles and see the starter from there.
First remove the main wire that comes from the battery (13mm nut and lock washer) then unplug the two wires that are on separate sides of the lug you just remove (noting the wire colors and which side you removed them from). Next remove the 13mm bolt that holds the bracket attached to the rear of the starter. It's the one bolted the to the engine block that is attached to the passenger side of the starter.
Lastly you will find 3, 13mm bolts that actually bolt the starter through the engine bell housing into the transmission. There is one on the very bottom, one in the center (kinda towards the rear of the vehicle only about 3 1/2" upward of the bottom bolt) and one at the very top directly opposite the bottom bolt ( this one is the hardest to locate and remove but it's up there, you just have to feel around or get a light to shine on the top of the starter to see it) After all bolts are removed you navigate the starter out by pulling it towards the passenger side wheel and between the CV axles and suspension parts of the front end. To reinstall it's the opposite of this procedure! Hope this Helps!!
Hello, there will be 2 (14mm) nuts on each exhaust manifold flange if it's a 2.2 liter and 3 (14mm)on each if it's a 2.5 liter. Remove your under shield if equipped and then there is a bracket mounted on the rear of the transmission on the passengers side of the trans that the exhaust is bolted to(14mm). then the 2 bolts with the small springs must also be removed (bolts are 14mm/nuts are 12mm). You can't forget about the oxygen sensor connectors, they must be disconnected first, one should be towards the back of the trans and the other at the front, both coming off of the exhaust. It's easiest to locate the sensors first then follow the wires to the connectors. I hope this info helps...(subyguru)...
Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
Left-Hand Removal
1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
Remove spark plug heat shield.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Installation
Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
Bolts are screwed into the manifold (actually studs) Best thing to do is to have someone heat them with a torch and get the nuts free. If the studs are in really bad shape, you will have to remove them from manifold and replace them (usually a torch job as well) Not a job for a burns o matic...need a real torch for this one! Or, just snap them off and remove manifolds to fix them.
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