Thermostat changed-both hoses hot-coolant level fine. Temperature gauge stays normal does not flucuate
Hopefully this link may help.
Possible blend door not working 2005 Explorer Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Bob
SOURCE: Cooling System
No you have air trapped in the cooling system, rasie the front of the car up as high as you can get it, fill the coolant bottlre to the top and run the engine for about 15 minutes at a high idle, let it cool down, it should purge itself of air once it is cool, make sure your radiator cap is good.
SOURCE: My 1996 ford windstar temperature gauge shows overheating
Your heater core more than likely needs to be replaced unfortunately. If the engine is heating properly and there are no freeze plugs that have been popped then that is your most likely problem.
SOURCE: coolant problem
Sounds like you might have an air pocket in the cooling system. This can develop, usually after a service, where the cooling system has to be opened to replace a water pump, thermostat, or other reason. When refilled, the air displaced by coolant has to go somewhere. In many cases, youll find that air is trapped in the highest place it can go...above the level of the radiator cap or overflow bottle. This can be a portion of the upper rad. hose, a heater hose, or a coolant line running thru various parts of the intake/throttle body area. What I do after topping up the system, is let the engine warm to normal op. temp./ W radiator cap still off. When upper hose becomes hot, you know thermostat is open. Now, if a bleeding device is not present, back off a hose clamp at the highest point in the system. Take a pair of pliers and twist the hose just enough to break the seal. You should see steam or drops escaping from your "breach". Once the steam stops and becomes all coolant, you have likely bled all air from the system. Top up radiator and coolant bottle to proper mark and close the system. (tighten your hose clamp) Check for leaks. Keep an eye on your system for a day or two, to insure no leaks are present.
Road
Caution! As with any task that involves opening the cooling system...Coolant and water can become very hot. Hot water and steam can be very dangerous. If you dont feel qualified to perform this task, let a mechanic do it!
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Thanks.....
SOURCE: oil pressure problem
You oil pressure sending unit has gone bad, it's common to go bad and some even leak oil.
The oil pressure sensor is on the back of the block on the passenger side, you can get to it from the top and not from the bottom. There are (2) switches back there that screw in to the block and you can only see it from the top of the engine. The Oil Pressure Sending Unit is the one wire harness with a green and white strip on it. The other switch has more wires to it.
When you pick up the new sensor, make sure you get the right one. make sure you get the Oil Pressure Sending Unit which sends variable oil pressure and has only one quick connect for the wire connector. The oil pressure switch is the one that only activates the oil light on older engine.
Once you get the right part at Auto Zone for around $9.00, disconnect the wire clip with the green with white strip on it. and use a deep spark plug socket with a extension and u joint to get the sensor out. The sensor comes with teflon tape already and no oil should leak out from the block. It as simple as replacing a bolt and reconnecting the wire connector.
Good luck and hope this helps, take no more then 10 min to do but about 5 hours for the engine to cool off LOL
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