Does engine turns at all and just won't start?
SOURCE: my car wont start. we have replaced the fuel pump,
When you look at your distributor ..you will see wires leading to it ,take off rotor and cap ,disconnect your battery ....unplug wires ....to the distributor ....remove the ignition modual ....replace it ....usually has two or three screws to it ...it's black usually in color ....
SOURCE: 1999 Ford Windstar-Will Turn over but won't start?
fuel pressure regulator could hav failed-located by engine or the ignition module may not be workin-by dist area try not to be a parts replacer-buy a repair book
SOURCE: i have a 2000 ford
WOW! I bet that was expensive!!! It sounds like we're saving money on the D.I.Y. now!
Please review this article:
What Else Could Be Wrong?
Your problem could be caused by the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - it may be malfunctioning and disabling the ignition system. (Not recognizing your key, or low ignition voltage to the PATS module, etc.)
It could be interference from any aftermarket equipment that you may have installed on your vehicle like remote start, security/alarm system, etc. If you don't have any aftermarket equipment installed, just disregard this. If you DO have aftermarket equipment installed, The troubleshooting charts published by Ford Motor Company for your vehicle state that proper diagnosis can only begin AFTER all such equipment is COMPLETELY removed from the vehicle and the vehicle must be RESTORED to a factory-like configuration. (Otherwise you could be spinning your wheels for weeks trying to figure out what is wrong.)
It could be a failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It could be a bad ignition switch not providing power to the PCM. It could be a bad PCM Power Relay. It could be any one of several sensors shorting out the 5-volt reference signal from the PCM. (Which would render the NEW crank sensor and cam sensor useless.)
In short, it COULD be caused by a LONG list of things.
The FIRST STEP in the troubleshooting charts is to SCAN THE PCM for fault codes. You are dealing with a computer-controlled ignition system and you cannot simply ignore the computer that controls it and expect to figure out why it is malfunctioning.
NOTE: a "generic OBD" code reader may or may not be sufficient to identify the source of your problem. Most generic code readers cannot access the General Electronic Module (GEM) or your PATS. They can also only read "Continuous Memory" codes. They do not have the technology required to perform Key-On-Engine-Off (KOEO) or Key-On-Engine-Running (KOER) diagnosis. If you have more than one code in continuous memory, then KOEO diagnostics must be performed to determine which code has priority in the diagnostic routine. KOEO codes are known as "HARD FAULTS" - which means that the problem is present RIGHT NOW. The continuous memory codes can sometimes cause confusion because sometimes the problem has already been fixed, but the codes did not get cleared properly, so the code is still in memory, but the problem that caused the code no longer exists. Continuous memory codes should always be placed on the "back burner" unless they are the only codes present. Again, a generic code reader can't read any other codes, so you don't know what is what unless you clear the codes and are able to get the code to set in continuous memory again. (Only then, can is be considered a "current" code.)
SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0 SOHC No
You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm
If you have to wait to restart its usually a faulty coil or ignition module.
Someone would need to troubleshoot the ignition system when the engine fails to start to proceed. Could be a faulty relay too.
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