This is a solution to a common problem with the GM Ecotec 2.0, 2.2, and the 2.4 liter engines. When the tensioner starts to fail it cant keep the timing chain properly tightened and causes chain-slap against the front chain guide eventually snapping off the upper shoulder bolt in the head or loosening it and destroying the threaded hole in the head. You will hear the chain chattering when this happens. I designed a permanent repair for this that eliminates the need for drilling, tapping, heli-coiling and dealing with metal filings getting into the engine. It only takes a minute to install and will keep the front chain guide held tightly in its factory position and will not break again. I'm going to attempt to add a picture or two and maybe a video of how easy it is to install it. I've done many of these engines with the guide bolt broken and decided to come up with this part. Any questions you may call me at 612-810-3461 Happy Holidays, Mike Brandt Saint Paul, MN
SOURCE: SNAPPED WATER PUMP BOLTS
Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!
SOURCE: timing chain noise 2005 cavalier 2.2 ecotec
Just the guide is probably making the noise. So either a new guide or a new chain. I would start with guide first, unless chain looks loose or cruddy
SOURCE: mazda cx7 engine noise
just get rid of this car, because you are going to need a new engine soon, my 2007 mazda cx7 with only 33000 miles is at the dealer for engine replacement!!!! only 2 days after i purchased the car
Fig. Lining up the crankshaft sprocket mark with the colored link in the 5 o-clock position (2).
Fig. Aligning the intake camshaft sprocket mark with the colored link in the 2 o-clock position (1).
Fig. Aligning the exhaust camshaft sprocket (3).
Fig. Compressing the timing chain tensioner-2.2L engine.
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
head gaskets
some
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
2*4.
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
Its
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
It
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
You
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Disclaimer
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview
A
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
The
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
The
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
With
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
It
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
Be
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
Now
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
There
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
For
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
There
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
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