My radio cuts in and out when it gets warm

I think your fuel pump may have quit. To check it... have someone turn the key on until the dash lights come on while you get as close to the fuel tank as possible, Do Not Crank The Engine, Now... when the key is turned on... for about 2 seconds you should hear a whineing sound from your fuel tank. If you do now... your fuel pump has quit.

cuts out ?
well, all FM radios cut out for.:
1: weak station.
2: stereo can not be held in properly( can be bypassed on most RAD , pick mono)
3: AGC drop out, same as #1

on better radios (RTM) you can defeat these default features.
set the FM to mono channel mode, and now you hear all stations.
also kill the AGC mode. this allows you to hear
the station. and static or both. like a Marconi radio of days of old.
modern radios are programmed to blank weak stations.
tis a fact. im a tech and tuned these features, for 50 years.

ok the fix,
1: move closer to station
2: get a better antenna (vast choices)
3: go to station and turn the gain knob up and get arrested by FCC.

Has anyone checked fuel pressure cold and hot ? Check engine light on ?

You make no mention of any fault code testing. That is the very first thing that needs to be done.

Start with the fuel pump.When you get into your car turn the ignition key to the on position but do not start your car.Listen for the fuel
Pump to engage,you will hear a low whine.If you hear the pump engage,that doesn't rule that the fuel pump is fine.It sounds like the pump though.

When it cuts out does the radio's display still work? Can you change channels but just not HEAR anything? Did you buy it from a private party or a dealer? Acura dealers may cover this under a warranty. Otherwise, time to join an Acura forum and look for answers there.

GL,
Td

fuses and the elctronic tec u need > to reset or the panel had been sprayed with fluid .

i had same case with BMW .

Do you check for codes every time you have a problem?
You know it isn't temperature related.
You know that pressing the gas pedal won't change computer input under certain conditions
How do you know you have fuel pressure? Do you drive with a gauge taped to the windshield?
Why didn't the shop repair it?
I would get a wiring diagram and check all grounds
Then scan the Throttle Position Sensor. As in, put a scanner or oscilloscope or volt meter on it.
Go through the entire system until you resolve it

Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mounted sub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.

This is normal. I also have a 2000 ES300. This became a problem when i tried to run an aftermarket sub off of the wire leads from the stock sub-woofer. When I would switch the radio off there would be a loud, deep, constant bass tone. As far as I know you cannot stop the voltage from continuously supplying the sub-woofer this is the way the factory amplifier is programmed, however, if you cut one of the wires(youhave to cut because wires are soldered to sub-woofer) the humming noise will not occur when radio is shut off. Cut the wire in middle and add crimp connectors so you can reconnect later if needed. You only need to cut one and it doesn't matter whether it's the black or red wire.