A/c heater dash controls not working

Out of range means the reading is not what it should be in the computers lookup files.

i see all your posts. good.
seem car is in bad bad shape.
i sold mine before they got that old. maybe you got mine,, LOL.
so that is called a short, circuit, and fuses prevent the fire
hot wiring and car, (boat./train/plane) is asking for a nice fire.
and if said fire hits gas line boom.
i had 4 windows changed on mine, (250k miles each car),, never once we let them leak?
that is a bad thing, if it hits expensive electronics..
you do see the location of the PCM right. ??? in harms way of water leaks , right, and wonder why mpg is bad?

shorts are easy, (i had one on one car in center of harness) nissan junk.
ok, so the power leaves a switch and goes down a wire.
and the wires are touching the body, the fuse blows.
do not go to the DARK SIDE. and up the fuse amps.
or invite fire. (or more damage$$$)
I use a amp clamp meter to find all shorts.
(or by just inspecting every inch of harness (applicable to the fail path)
the meter shows its shorted and i move the meter until
it shows no more short.
at that spot THERE< is the short. at the point it goes non shorted.


a cheap tool like this works like magic.

http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100.jpg

get the car dry inside, and win....

wiring harness ground faulty or engine ground strap possible

The display is backlit and you most likely need to remove it and have it repaired as the bulb is hard wired to the circuit board

Having the module checked for DTC'S should be your first step. DTC B1000 ECU Malfunction
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Observe the display of the heater and A/C control.
Does the heater and A/C control display only - - -?
--
Yes - Go to Step 6
No - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
6
Notice: The circuit terminates at a flat wire connector. Use the J 42675 Flat Wire Probe Adapter Kit in order to avoid damage and properly test the circuit.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the heater and A/C control.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Measure the voltage from the KDD data circuit to a good ground.
Does the voltage measure near the specified value?
1 Vdc Pin # 6 heater a/c control panel .
Yes - Go to Step 7
No - Go to Step 10


The instrument panel module (IPM) communicates with the heater and A/C control via the keyboard display driver (KDD) data bus. This communication link is only used by the IPM and the heater and A/C control.

7
Notice: The circuit terminates at a flat wire connector. Use the J 42675 Flat Wire Probe Adapter Kit in order to avoid damage and properly test the circuit.
Measure the frequency from the KDD clock circuit to a good ground. This is pin # 5 at the heater - A/C control head .
Does the frequency measure near the specified value?
930 Hz

YES - Go to Step 12
NO - Go to Step 11

11
Notice: The circuit terminates at a flat wire connector. Use the J 42675 Flat Wire Probe Adapter Kit in order to avoid damage and properly test the circuit.
Test the KDD clock circuit for a short to voltage, a short to ground, or an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 16
NO - Go to Step 13
12
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the heater and A/C control. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 16
NO - Go to Step 14
13
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the IPM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 15
14
Replace the heater and A/C control. Refer to Control Assembly Replacement .
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 16
--
15
Replace the IPM. Refer to Instrument Panel Module Replacement in Body Control System.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 16
--
16
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs .
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 2
System OK

I would venture to say that if you hit the dash and the motor started running then the problem would be in the heater control assembly mounted in the dash, like bad wire to Heater switch connection. A bad connection can jenerate a lot of heat and start melting things unless you find the problem soon enough. The switch may already be damaged inspect switches and wireing for any vissible damage and replace as required. However if everything looks ok with the heater control assembly, Their are a few more things you can check to be sure of before relpacing the heater blower motor. Turn the heater controles to the high heat and fan on high as well, settings and remove the heater blower motor pig tail and check to see if power is getting to the motor,( use a 12 volt test light at the wire harness side of this connection ) also check for power going to and leaving the blower motor resistor assembly ( mounted to the side or top of the blower motor housing ). If so equipped. If you find no power getting to the motor at this point then you will half to start working your way back through the wireing towords the heater controles until you find the problem. Using your test light. Now if you did have power going to the motor then replace the motor. Good Luck From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.

locate the relay for the heater/ac control. it is likely located in the fuse panel under the dash and replace it. the second culprit may be the resistor block that controls the speeds of the fan. it is located in the ductwork under the dash close to the fan itself. fairly easy to spot as there will be a wiring harness plug that goes to it. two to three bolts hold it in place. they have a tendency to rust and may possibly be shorting out. check the relay first tho

Very long process. Remove ground cable on battery first. Then take all screws out accross dash near windshield. thenremove all bolts to steering column and lower, remove all bolts on lower dash and braces, this will allow dash to move somewhat, now start disconnecting the million wires and reverse procedure to reinstall

the blower module is shorted out.

Check the fan resister (under the dash on the passenger side) I would almost bet it gone.
unplug the wiring harness and look at the conecter
You will find it melted on the harness side.
replace the resistor and maybe the connecter if it is melted to bad.
I see this quite often.
let me know how you make out