Question about Mazda 323

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I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift

I thought the clutch pressure plate was faulty but even when i change it remain the same

Posted by elaheebocus mirza... on

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1 Answer

montehammons

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  • Mazda Master
  • 5,531 Answers

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Posted on Dec 09, 2013

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch

have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: mazda 323 familia automatic is not changing gears only 1,2 and R

hi

it seems that the gear bushings have worn out. you need to take your car to a mechanic to have the bushings changed. Also, please check it your car has enough Automatic Transmission Fluid.

i am always here
kind Regards
RAhUL_hunk

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

Richard Scordino

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: Hard Clutch and 1st and 2nd Gear Shifting is hard

The clutch bearing is supposed to have a groove on the inside where it slides on the shaft That groove is supposed to have a heavy grease applied to it to prevent the bearing running dry on the collar it slides on.Regardless of your driving style, that grease is intended to remain there for the life of the clutch, (generally every clutch I have ever replaced still had some remaining lube there unless the bearing itself failed from a material defect which caused it to overheat and cause that grease to then run out of the retaining groove) I'm not there and can't see the old parts, but in my opinion the first clutch may have failed partially because of your lack of skill in using a stick shift vehicle but the second failure obviously is not your fault if the information you have posted is correct.
Good luck

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

Anonymous

  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 mazda astina 323 5 spd manual clutch fluid??

Check the brake fluid resovoir, on the side there could be a hose coming off it part way down the side sharing the brake fluid to the clutch master cylinder

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

Anonymous

  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: 5 speed manual transmission really hard to shift/change gears

The transmition is not the problem. The cables that run from the shifter to the transmition are the culpret. I recently rescued my wife from the road when the linkage broke on our VUE. I purchased new connectors and cables from the dealership and replaced them. For those that have the proper knowledge and skill set, you can replace them yourself. Others are better off having it done at a shop. The following is my personal experience and is not meant to be a guide, repair manual or procedure for those who lack formal automotive repair training! The new shifter cables come as a set. The cable with the white housing does not seem to be a problem. The cable with the black housing controls the push forward-pull back and the cable with the white housing controls the side to side movement. I found that the new cable with the black housing had the same sort of stiffness when I pushed and pulled the cable by hand. Then I noticed that the cable end was bent, causing it to bind in the housing. I straightened the end by bending it with my hands untill I felt the least amount of binding or resistance when pushing and pulling it. When I installed it the difference was amazing! I kept the old cable set for emergencies. The only tools you need to replace the cables and couplings are a 7mm socket on a screwdriver handle, a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose plyers. Remove the center console, (4, 7mm screws) and electrical connections. Then remove the plastic panels around the shifter, (7, phillips head screws and 2 plastic push pins) associated snap together panel fasteners and electrical connections. Pop each cable end off it's shifter joint/ball and push the collar back on each cable housing anchor. Pull the carpet back and push the rubber grommet through the firewall in the passenger footwell. Then pop the cable ends off at the transmition. Pull the old cable set out and reverse the procedure to install the new cables. There is an adjustment of the cable length. This should be done before replacing the plastic panels and center console. The new cable ends that attach to the shifter can be positioned/adjusted. Looking at the old cable pair you will see where the old clips were positioned and can start with that. Then run the shifter through all the gears to make sure they all engage. If you run out of travel on the shifter handle re-position the clips on the cable ends, as needed, to get full gear engagement without running out of travel.

Posted on Aug 15, 2010

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