Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
Clean your throttle body first you might need to get a new throttle position sensor
Posted on Dec 03, 2013
SOURCE: P1298 Code Fuel/Air Metering
Are you sure you wrote the correct code. According to Honda, P1298 is a high ELD circuit voltage. If what I just put is correct, Honda has a service bulletin as this is a common problem( it could be another fault, but this is the most likely choice).
The ELD has a bad solder joint. I have done several of these, you will need to replace the ELD, and this is how.
1 D/C the negative battery cable (make sure you know your radio code, it will be needed to use the radio again)
2 Unbolt the fuse box that is in the engine bay.
3 Attached to the fuse box underneath there is a plastic cover, remove this cover.
4 There is a 3 pin connector under this cover. Remove it
5 Flip the fuse box back over, there are 2 big fuses bolted down, a 40 A and a 80A
6 Under these fuses is the ELD, remove it and pull the bar that sticks out of it.
7 Stick the bar in the new ELD
8 Put everything back together. Do the idle learn (just idle the car for 10 minutes with no loads on such as radio, headlights etc..)
This is probably the first thing they will do if you bring it to Honda assuming the code you have is P1298.
Posted on May 07, 2009
SOURCE: 1999 Sonata Error code P1167
Trouble Code: P01167
HO2S-11 Controller Adaptive Test (Bank 2)
HI, this code represents a fault within one or both of the O2 sensors that are located on the exhaust system i will list the possible causes of this code you are receiving.
Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or in the EGR or PCV system
Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders
Exhaust leaks located in front of the A/FS or HO2S location
Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP)
Fuel delivery system supplying too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump or dirty, restricted fuel filter)
Fuel injector (one or more) dirty or pressure regulator has failed
HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed
Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: 98 lexus gs300 codes p1120 p1121
I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)
My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).
During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.
The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)
THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.
The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.
I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.
GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.
The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
In almost every Ford Product from 1990 to 1999 the most likely cause is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor.
Auto manufacturers have a cleaning cycle built into the MAF circuit. How it works is this; when the key is turned off a larger current is sent through this hot wire causing it to glow red hot, thus burning off any contaminants. Well, almost all auto manufacturers that is.
MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher air flows.
To confirm this disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, airflow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated.
When this happens Ford says you must replace the MAF since they cannot be repaired. With a dealer cost of about $177.00 and about 1.5 hours of labor the repair is not very expensive. However Ford is not correct. This problem can be fixed and it can be done by just about anyone.
What you need to do is go to the local Radio Shack and get a can of spray tuner cleaner, #64-4315. Or a MAF cleaner at any Auto Parts store. Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable and remove the MAF from the vehicle. Spray the inside of the MAF with the tuner cleaner. Be very careful when you spray the hot wire. It is very thin and if it breaks, you will have to replace the MAF. Clean it well and let it air dry for 15 or 20 minutes.
Don't use carburetor or brake cleaner. They leave a residue and you will be right back where you started. Use ONLY the tuner cleaner, MAF cleaner which dries residue free. When it's dry put it back in the vehicle and reconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable. You will need to drive the vehicle several miles to let the PCM "relearn" your specific driving conditions. Once that is done the codes will not come back and you should notice all the symptoms are gone as well.
Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your car running 100% soon.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
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