I have a 2006 Merc Mountaineer that i had installed an aftermarket system on. I pulled the plastic off to the factory sub, to find an amplifier built in right next to the sub. After a couple weeks of running the subs, they cut out. I never found a solution other than my speakers blew (Cheap Boss's). After getting new speakers, and trying to wire it directly from the back of the radio, i cant find anything about which wires are for sub, and none of them match the colors of the wires feeding the factory amp in the back that i am attempting to bypass.
My problem, and question is, i want to get my signal from the wires feeding IN to the factory amp, but the dealership isnt cooperating over the phone, and are miles away. I cant seem to figure out which colors are what.
Wires feeding the amp:
2 heavier guage(Likely power feeding the amp)
3 smaller guage
- 1 green/white(ground?)
- 1 purple/green stripe
- 1 purple/red stripe
Which wires would i feed to my aftermarket smplifier?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,
owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
this website www.reliable-store.com
it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..
I get this question a lot - Installing aftermarket decks in this car can be a real problem.There are a fairly large number of entertainment options for this car, and the OEM wiring harness used depends on which one you have. In cases where a Bose system is installed, there is no direct connection from the radio to the speakers - just preamp lines to the Bose amplifier at the back of the car, and aftermarket installations require bypassing that amp (which can be a nightmare). To figure out what you have to do, you need the wiring diagrams for your deck and the system you are replacing - try Alldatadiy.com.
There are aftermarket connector packages that will plug up directly to your factory wiring and allow you to wire up your aftermarket unit without cutting any original wiring. Crutchfield supplied these with aftermarket units they sell. You may be able to purchase one from them.
Some trucks and gm cars have two kinds of systems one without a amp,and one without so judging by what you're saying you probably have one with a amp so yes you can but it is complicated and you would need to bypass amp so just get the kit that's required for your vehicle.
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Car Audio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
no problem with replacing all speakers with ones that are compatable wth you new amp .. and that means the the speaker impedance has to be wtihin the range of what the amp can drive (like 4 ohm, 8 ohm, 16 ohm) .... the subwoofer needs inputs from both left and right channels .. it also needs its own amplifier and low pass filter .. this all may be built into your after market amplifier .. if so you will have an output marked sub (that will directly drive the subwoofer) .. or you may have a low level outdput marked sub that goes to your subwoofer amplifier if it has one .. .. sometimes the woofer has its own built in amplifier and filter .. it then just needs power and inputs from each channel .. since you are running 500 watt speakers, they likely already have a subwoofer component .. (speakers that extend down to 20 hz or lower .) if so, you may not need an additional sub-woofer .. just make sure all the speakers are phased correctly .. (wired to work together not fighting each other ..) .... an amplifier capable of driving 500 watt speakers can draw peak currents that are very high .. so power wiring would have to be very heavy and preferably go directly to the battery with an inline fuse right at the battery ..
I'm doing this from memory since it's been about four months since I actually did this. This is for a 2005 LX. EX procedure may be slightly different.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and make sure it can't come back into contact with the negative battery terminal.
1) Remove the plastic tab (where a push button probably is for EX model) to the upper right of the radio. 2)
Carefully pry off the plastic piece which surrounds the stereo. I used a
thin screwdriver and sock, and slightly scraped things up. In hindsight
I should have used a specialized pry tool for removing such things. I
think there were four or five places where this plastic panel is clipped
into place. 3) After you get the plastic panel pried off, slowly
remove it. You will need to disconnect the three wire harnesses
connected to the buttons / indicators on the plastic panel. 4) The plastic panel should now be out of the way. Remove the four mounting screws holding the radio in place. 5) Slowly slide the radio towards you. Disconnect the wire harness and the antenna. 6) You should be ready to install a new stereo.
a side note, when pulling the wire harnesses apart be sure to pull from
the plastic connectors and not on the wires. If you pull on the wires,
they may come loose from the harnesses.
If you are hooking up an
aftermarket stereo, be sure to use a wire harness to connect from the
aftermarket stereo to the Pilot's harness (otherwise you'll end up
having to cut off the Pilot's wire harness which isn't ideal). I'd also
recommend soldering and heat shrink tubing the aftermarket stereo's
wiring to the aftermarket stereo's wire harness. It takes a while longer
than the crimp or electrical tape method but ensures a robust
connection and no electrical shorts when done correctly.
aftermarket stereo has a power antenna connection. This needed to be
connected (the Pilot's antenna is part of the rear window and thus isn't
powered) because there is a signal booster which requires power
(otherwise you won't be able to tune into any AM stations and will get
very poor FM reception).