I have a 2006 Merc Mountaineer that i had installed an aftermarket system on. I pulled the plastic off to the factory sub, to find an amplifier built in right next to the sub. After a couple weeks of running the subs, they cut out. I never found a solution other than my speakers blew (Cheap Boss's). After getting new speakers, and trying to wire it directly from the back of the radio, i cant find anything about which wires are for sub, and none of them match the colors of the wires feeding the factory amp in the back that i am attempting to bypass.
My problem, and question is, i want to get my signal from the wires feeding IN to the factory amp, but the dealership isnt cooperating over the phone, and are miles away. I cant seem to figure out which colors are what.
Wires feeding the amp:
2 heavier guage(Likely power feeding the amp)
3 smaller guage
- 1 green/white(ground?)
- 1 purple/green stripe
- 1 purple/red stripe
Which wires would i feed to my aftermarket smplifier?
After reading i feel i must say that when i found the factory amp, i was told that it will simply amplify the sound alittle more before reaching my aftermarket amp. I used the wires FEEDING the factory sub from the factory amp for my signal before my speakers went out, and i had assumed it was the factory amp.After reading i feel i must say that when i found the factory amp, i was told that it will simply amplify the sound alittle more before reaching my aftermarket amp. I used the wires FEEDING the factory sub from the factory amp for my signal before my speakers went out, and i had assumed it was the factory amp.
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It is never as straightforward as you think because the entertainment system is monitored and run by the body control module and put warning chimes and things like the blinker clicker through the audio system.
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I get this question a lot - Installing aftermarket decks in this car can be a real problem.There are a fairly large number of entertainment options for this car, and the OEM wiring harness used depends on which one you have. In cases where a Bose system is installed, there is no direct connection from the radio to the speakers - just preamp lines to the Bose amplifier at the back of the car, and aftermarket installations require bypassing that amp (which can be a nightmare). To figure out what you have to do, you need the wiring diagrams for your deck and the system you are replacing - try Alldatadiy.com.
There are aftermarket connector packages that will plug up directly to your factory wiring and allow you to wire up your aftermarket unit without cutting any original wiring. Crutchfield supplied these with aftermarket units they sell. You may be able to purchase one from them.
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Car Audio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
I'm doing this from memory since it's been about four months since I actually did this. This is for a 2005 LX. EX procedure may be slightly different.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and make sure it can't come back into contact with the negative battery terminal.
1) Remove the plastic tab (where a push button probably is for EX model) to the upper right of the radio. 2)
Carefully pry off the plastic piece which surrounds the stereo. I used a
thin screwdriver and sock, and slightly scraped things up. In hindsight
I should have used a specialized pry tool for removing such things. I
think there were four or five places where this plastic panel is clipped
into place. 3) After you get the plastic panel pried off, slowly
remove it. You will need to disconnect the three wire harnesses
connected to the buttons / indicators on the plastic panel. 4) The plastic panel should now be out of the way. Remove the four mounting screws holding the radio in place. 5) Slowly slide the radio towards you. Disconnect the wire harness and the antenna. 6) You should be ready to install a new stereo.
As
a side note, when pulling the wire harnesses apart be sure to pull from
the plastic connectors and not on the wires. If you pull on the wires,
they may come loose from the harnesses.
If you are hooking up an
aftermarket stereo, be sure to use a wire harness to connect from the
aftermarket stereo to the Pilot's harness (otherwise you'll end up
having to cut off the Pilot's wire harness which isn't ideal). I'd also
recommend soldering and heat shrink tubing the aftermarket stereo's
wiring to the aftermarket stereo's wire harness. It takes a while longer
than the crimp or electrical tape method but ensures a robust
connection and no electrical shorts when done correctly.
My
aftermarket stereo has a power antenna connection. This needed to be
connected (the Pilot's antenna is part of the rear window and thus isn't
powered) because there is a signal booster which requires power
(otherwise you won't be able to tune into any AM stations and will get
very poor FM reception).
I'm going to take a guess and say likely to be in the passenger compartment. Sometime, they are near the glove box. You can also look under the driver side compartment. There should be a plastic protective cap. Use a flashlight.
After reading i feel i must say that when i found the factory amp, i was told that it will simply amplify the sound alittle more before reaching my aftermarket amp. I used the wires FEEDING the factory sub from the factory amp for my signal before my speakers went out, and i had assumed it was the factory amp.
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