The connector at the side of the seat has power and when testing all the switches the power flows through. The motors are not seized due to when power is applied directly to the motor the seat moves. Any other sugestions
Sounds like the motor brushes are about worn out.
Where you actually sitting on the seat when you applied power directly to the motor? If the motor is wearing out, it may work under little or no load but won't work when your weight is on the seat. Will the seat move while hitting the button if you also help push the seat in the direction you are trying to move it? If yes, the motor is weak. Change the motor, check, clean and lube the tracks, if nec., then see if that's better.
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You have probably burnt up the element as it is a 17 year old seat now. The elements are replaceable, but the labor is pretty spendy. To test it you will need a multimeter to check for continuity across the connectors that go to the seat heating elements and check for voltage at the car side of the connector. If you have 12v to one side of the connector and continuity to ground at the other side, and do not have continuity to the seat side between the connectors, you know it is a bad element.
It depends, a test light will make trouble shooting this quick. Unplug the motor that controls forward and back movement. Probe the vehicle side of the connector with your test light while operating the switch. If you have power going to the motor when the switch is activated then it is not a switch issue. It is either the motor or there is an obstruction not allowing the seat to move in the track.
with test light to ground check power seat switch for power and ground. if ok check connectors to power seat motor when you flip the switch if current goes to a motor if not switch defect if ok motor don't forget to check the ground is ok
three things left to check, using test light see if you have power at motor with key and switch on,if you do replace motor,if not locate blower motor resistor it will be close to motor,check for power going in,last is the heater control assembly
Big problem with these cars is the electrical connector behind the driver seat on the floor. Son of a gun to open use a small screw driver and be careful. They must closetightly and hold. 90% of time the terminals are loaded with corrosion. Remove battery power from the vehicle and either clean them or replace them. If that doesn't work pull seat cushions out and test the switch. Use shop manual for this
simple test. Either check the switch for resistance or remove the switch from the electrical connectors and jump the terminals with a jumper wire to see if you get the seat motor to move. If it does you need a new switch if it doesn't you need a new motor. Shop manual may have another way to test this with the switch in place. Here you are measuing for continuity.
This is fun stuff . good luck &keep me posted
it can only be 2 things, either the switch is bad or the motor in the transmission is bad, both parts are a common failure so u must test each to determine which is at fault, do u have a 12 volt test light? if not get one, about $6 from any parts store like Kragen, Autozone and others, raise the seat as high as possible and disconnect the motor that is inop, (be careful not to break the connector locks) push the switch to operate that motor in one direction (up for this test), the test light should light, then move the test light to the other terminal of the connector and press the switch for down, again the test light should light, if the lights go on as described then the motor is the problem and if they don't the switch is the problem.
first for the switch in window
the window switch is easy to test you just gotta remove switch out of the door leaving it hang there is a way to test with a guaged wire with fuse on it
take the main power wire and touch to the other connectors on the main switch if the window goes down or up the switch is the problem
im suggesting this way first with fuse cause its easier then testing the windows motor inside the door frame the switches should just pop out of the panel with out haveing to take panel off
now the seat belts there are 2 style that are common to chevy
one is inside the molding of the drivers panel you gotta pop off the panels easily and gently to get at the seat belt retractor this will be bolted to the metal under the molding
the other style is in the seat which you gotta unbolt the seat under the top half it will need to be unbolted at the bottom top half of seat
when you pull threw the top section of top half of seat remember to tie a string to the end so that when you pull threw top half the string will be there so you can connect too new belt and pull back threw with ease make the string long enough to hang
now the bottom half of seat what i call the "**** seat" you remove the molding at bottom around the belt retractor this will be bolted to floor bolt also pull belt threw molding once molding removed
disconnect any electric wires
now saftey issue involved with seat belt removal is for a reason i dont know of the dealer ship always discharges the belts and air bags once removed i guess because of static electricity becareful when you remove belt and replacing belts cause static elec. can set them off
once your seat belt is removed place in card board box and take to dealer after complition of installing new belt they will discharge your seat belt for you and then you can dispose of it properly