Question about 1993 Nissan Maxima

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1993 Nissan Maxima SE Car Alarm freaks out, and other electrical

Well, what happens is, the door locks used to lock and unlock by themselves. To unlock the doors, I have to hit the unlock button twice quickly. It is always scary opening the door. Sometimes the alarm goes off, sometimes it doesn't. It has actually gone off while I'm driving down the road. Now the doors won't lock or unlock at all, and the power windows only go down. What is the deal?

Posted by jcochran24 on

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bbopbobber

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Im no professional but i did recently buy a 93 maxima and i have the same security alarm problem and my powered locks dont work at all. im taking off the door panel today to take a look and see if the alarm sensor is loose or damaged, if it is, ill probably just disconnect it. one thing i have noticed though is that when i hit the lock or unlock button, i hear a faint click from the dashboard area which im assuming is the solenoid on a transistor which would mean that the buttons work but the transistor isnt delivering power. Semi-Solution for Locks: Listen for very quiet click when you lock/unlock doors, if you hear it, uve got major work to do, if you dont, then take apart the door and check the switch connections. Semi-Solution for Alarm: take off the door panel and disconnect the sensor.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

  • hatecops May 18, 2010

    I had the same door lock problem with my 1993 Maxima SE. I found a link mentioning bad solder joints that develop on the "door lock timer" board. This in inside a gray box under the dash on the drivers side. You need to remove that "bolster" (?) pad/plate that is right above the drivers legs. There is the vent duct that is attached to it. Don't worry, it can stay. It just pulls away with the panel. You do have to unscrew the "security thingy" with the two blinking LED's and the PCB. Again, no worries. I think there are about 5-7 screws holding this plate in. The gray box has two connectors plugged into it. Remove them. Gray box is mounted to a metal plate secured by two screws. Remove them. Also on the metal plate may be a relay (flasher?). Just unplug it and leave it and the door lock timer attached to the mounting plate. Snap the bottom of the timer box open and slide the board out. Bad solder joints usually are at the relay terminals. (black box about 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/4") Basically, resolder anything that looks questionable. I used a 33 watt iron. A Weller soldering gun has too big a tip and basically is not the proper tool to use. If in doubt, find someone who is GOOD at soldering. (I'm an electronic design engineer, so it was easy). Locks work great now!

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