Question about Cars & Trucks
Might be a leak somewhere in brake lines. Or some gasket gone bad in brakes (then there is probably a leak as well). If no leak then I assume there is some air in the brake system, sounds like in lines which lead to back brakes so I suggest you bleed back brakes (preferably bleed the whole brake system). In my car (not bolero though) there is some kind of braking power balancing system with extra bleeding screw at the back and this could have air in too. You can find further information how to bleed braking system from your car manual or generally from the Internet. Usual drill is to bleed the furthest brake first then continue until closest brake to your car brake fluid reservoir.
PS: If your brake pedal feels soft and get harder by each push then there is definitely air in the system. If it stays soft you might have a leak.
Posted on Jan 17, 2014
90% of the time the sequence is identical.
Jack up and support on axle stand.
There should be two bolts holding the brake caliper on - usually on the inside.
Slacken both, but only remove the lower one.
The caliper should then be able to swing up pivoting on the top bolt.
You can remove this top bolt, but support the weight of the assembly with wire to the suspension spring - so as not to stress the brake hose.
Remove the brake pads, and clean the areas the pads seat on.
Push back the pistons. Some require a special tool, most make do with a wooden packer and suitable large lever - or G clamp.
Fit new pads. Pay particular attention to any fitting clips, springs, rods or pins that are needed.
With new pads in, swing down caliper into position. Fit new attatchment bolts or use a threadlock on fixings. & tighten.
Still with wheel off, depress brake pedal to activate brakes - & check for leaks and working.
With foot off brake, check hub turns with no problems.
Refit wheel and repeat for other side.
ALWAYS replace brakes in axle pairs.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 14, 2008
You can turn a rotor once or twice but each time you do, you are removing metal...The rotors today are really not thick enough to put up with too much of that before they are too thin to be useful. In removing metal they will not dissipate heat well and are then more prone to warping. I suggest you replace them and make sure that the caliper slides are well lubricated and the pistons are not binding. The rear adjusters are designed so that they adjust themselves with normal use and unless the adjusters are frozen they should be where they should be. Most don't have a provision to do any adjustments manually, so if there is a problem, you will need to take the rear brakes apart and check to make sure everything is free.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
First, do you have any diff oil leaking on the rear brake shoes? If so that will cause the problem. The is also a brake proportioning valve. That could be stuck. If the rear shoes are oil soaked, you need to replace them. Just cleaning them wont work because as they heat up, the oil cooks out of the linings.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
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