Re: How to change back brakes? I can't get the brake...
Do you mean back brake pads or the back brake callipers?
To change pads you need to use a rear brake pads changing tool to screw in the calliper piston or if you are experienced enough you could screw in the calliper with a two mm thick piece of metal sheeting that fits into the grove of the piston.
If you need to replace the whole calliper remove the hand brake cable first and clamp the flexible brake hose remove brake hose, remove the callier with cylinder and then remove the calliper holder. fit new holder pads and locks and the calliper with the piston and the brake hose and the hand brake cable. Bleed the brakes. Mike
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION If
you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake
replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving
the other wheel intact as a reference. 1983-88 Vehicles See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the brake drum, as outlined earlier in this section.
Place Brake Cylinder Clamp D81L-1103-B or equivalent, over the ends of the brake cylinder.
CAUTIONBe careful that the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
Remove
the shoe-to-anchor springs, using Brake Shoe R and R Spring BT-11, or
equivalent, then unhook the cable eye from the anchor pin.
Fig.
1: Place the brake clamp tool over the ends of the wheel cylinder, then
remove the shoe-to-anchor springs using the correct tool
Remove the shoe guide (anchor pin) plate.
Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screws, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjustment parts.
Remove the parking brake link, spring and retainer. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
After
removing the secondary brake shoe, disassembly the parking brake lever
from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring washer.
Fig. 2: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 9-inch brake shownFig. 3: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 10-inch brake shownTo install:
The
brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the
shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the
parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is
accomplished by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and
disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and
install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of
the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake
cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side cutter pliers on
the end of the cable coil spring, and using the plier as a fulcrum,
pull the coil spring back with the side cutters. Position the cable in
the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high
temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing
plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing
plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting
pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
Install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
Install
the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end
of the brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the
anchor pin.
CAUTIONBe careful to make sure that the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause injury.
Install
the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making
sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake
shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
Install
the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide
and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the
spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting
screw and apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the
threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it 1/2 turn.
Install
the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest
to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that
is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
Connect
the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the
automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic
adjuster lever.
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever
will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and
engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake
shoe.
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure that
everything is installed properly. Make sure that the shoes engage the
wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure that
the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot
on the back of the cable guide. Make sure that the adjusting lever
rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting
cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release
the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the
adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the brake drum and wheel and tire assembly, then adjust the brakes.
The parking brake cable is stuck in the applied position. Try to hook the parking brake apply arm with a pry bar to the wheel hub to pry it out or disconnect the parking brake cable.
Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.
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Hi Alicia,how is your brake fluid?Usually just changing front brake shoes requires no bleeding since the brake line was not open,how were your brakes before you changed the pads,if fluid is low,maybe back wheel cylinders are leaking.Front calibers could be bad,or even master cylinder,need more info.
There will be two bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder that secure it to the backing plate.
- Remove the drums and all brake components obstructing the removal of the wheel cylinders.
- Remove the brake lines going into the back of the wheel cylinders, use plenty of spray lube, and work with the fittings on the lines gently, you may have to warm them with a torch to avoid damage if they are frozen.
- Replace wheel cylinders, re-connect brake lines
- Re-assemble rear brake components
- Bleed air from brake system
-Done!
Hi:
You can buy complete rear brake cylinders, and while you have everything apart to change them, you probaby need to replace the drum brake pads, if they have fluid on them. use a line wrench to undo the brake line on the back of the cylinder to avoid rounding off the fitting.
The back brakes on my Honda Accord are disc brakes. After removing the brake cylinder assembly you will see the brake cylinder piston end has a slot in it. The short pin on the back side of the inner brake pad fits into this slot, but also it is used to 'Turn' (clock-wise) the piston back into the cylinder so you fit the assembly back over the new 'thicker' pads. You can not 'press' this piston back into the cylinder.
Fig.
1: Place the brake clamp tool over the ends of the wheel cylinder, then
remove the shoe-to-anchor springs using the correct tool
Fig. 2: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 9-inch brake shown
Fig. 3: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 10-inch brake shownTo install:
disc 2 notches
drum or disc? does it have 2 notches on the caliper?
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