I guess I need a Honda Expert. I have a severe overheating problem. I have now spent $ 2,000 trying to fix this. What happens is, as I am driving, the anti-freeze and the motor get hot, and the overflow bottle fills up, and then the radiator cap starts to blow antifreeze all over the engine, because the overflow bottle is full. This means the engine is now running out of antifreeze, so it overheats and the needle goes to boiling. The antifreeze never returns to the radiator, even when it cools off. I have to siphon out the antifreeze from the overflow bottle every time I drive the car and refill the radiator. I just had a valve job, and have replaced about all the switches, pumps, hoses, radiator, fans, etc. The valve job was supposed to fix this.

92 old car. no problem GOT A/C? still?
is the AF mix 50% (or what?)
over heating. im not so sure what replaced, means, besides hands moving.? new, used, rebuilt parts all in your list.? new rad?
$2k , sure new. but? must ask.
im sure it over heats parked. 30min run, but the real question
does it do that moving.? fast, if not the fan is bad.
i bet it dont overheat moving fast, Im sure you are afraid to try, me too.
point 2 is all old ECU have (old super bad limphome mode)
in 1996 this got better, but in your year, it limits RPM to 4000
and sets AFR way rich and now the important part, retarded timing. so if the check engine light glows running , this means
it\'s probably in limp home mode, what code is it? code 6 ECT?

92 civic (the way it works, ) the COOLING system.
depending on ambient temps(location not stated)
all engines overheat with a dead RAD FAN. !! (not ALASKA)

the first test is just that, idle a long time when the water temp hits about 225 the fan comes on , (not sure what exact temp)
consider this.
the boiling point of water at sea level. 212f
if the rad cap is at 14psi that new boil point 25f more !
so 50% AF is 225 +25f or 250f boil point. (see bottle its there)

so the best place (ive added many a thermal fan)
is what? (are you running a 180 or 195F thermostat)
i run 195f for max cooling and MPG .(ask why)
so my thermal switch is set to 225, about 1/2 way from 200 to 250f , see why "
Im not sure where honda sets their;s.
I off that only because my fsm skips this critical fact !

im not honda guy, im an EFI guy (call cars)
here is the steps right out of the manual and is #1 after 50% mix
quote.:

1. 
   Turn the ignition, air conditioner and blower speed switch ON.
   
   


2. 
   Check for voltage at the condenser fan motor using a voltmeter.
   
   


3. 
   There should be approximately 12 volts, if not as specified check the fuses, relay, wiring and control unit.
   
   


4. 
   Turn the ignition switch OFF.
   
   


5. 
   Disconnect the condenser fan wire connector.
   
   


6. 
   Connect 12 volts to terminal A of the cooling fan wire connector terminal and ground terminal B.
   
   


7. 
   The cooling fan should run smoothly, if not as specified replace the condenser fan
   
   

end qoute.
so this test assumes the A/C works. got ac?
the AC gates the fan on , always. , that is why they test it this way.
the second test is to be sure the overheated coolant, 30+ minute
idle , triggers the fan on . I bet yours does not.
if you need help post here. we can find it, i promise. together.
the PGM-FI (ECU ) controls the fan at all times.
A/C and overheat, (2 features)
guess how? the ECT (CTS relic name)
the ECU watches the ECT and when it goes overheat the eCU closes the relay and the fan runs. full speed at 12vdc.

looks like we must really fix it. now.
"have replaced about all the switches, pumps, hoses, radiator, fans, etc." all new, used or what.
my fast list:
is the fan belt tight to the water pump? no slipping?
is the RAD fan spinning,?
is the thermostat not in upside down is the bleed hole up hill.
is there no air pockets below the stat?
is the state rated 180F or higher, never run 160s ever in any EFI
is the check engine light on?
if yes, and the code 6 is set, that means the ECT is dead.
and guess what if that\'s dead so most the RAD FAN be dead
overheated. and code 6 , also (sadly) causes retarded timing
and more HEAT (huge heat) so in effect the ECU falls on its own
sword., (0BD1 does suk, and OBD2 solved that....)
history there.

ask for help here.
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/forumdisplay.php?fid=8

I have the fan schematic if you need it ask.

Have you checked the head gasket. oil with gunk on the cap. water when standing have a film on it. gray or black smoke coming out of the exhaust... the thermostat been replaced ??? need to check these. dont keep throwing money at it. in the end you can change every thing and cost you a fortune. then find out it was something that just cost a few dollers or pounds.