What are the torque specs for pitman arm to steering gear nut, pitman arm to relay rod nut and tie rod to steering knuckle on a 1994 Chevy G20 Van?

• Axle Shaft nut - 177 ft-lb
• Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts - 133 ft-lb

2003 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 v6. Changing steering rack and

https://www.justanswer.com > ... > Chevrolet Repair
Jan 11, 2021 - Below are the torque specs you requested: Steering Rack-to-frame mounting bolts: 136 lb. ft. Outer tie rod nut: 37 lb. ft. Outer tie rod ...
1 answer · 1 vote: Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft: 33 ft. lb.

• 
  

  Torque specs for tie rod end castle nuts - JustAnswer

  https://www.justanswer.com > chevy > 2p3g8-torque-sp...
  Oct 24, 2009 - Tighten the clamp nuts 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) (except C3HD). On C3HD models, tighten the clamp nuts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm.

People also ask

Brake Hose Bracket Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 128 Nm (94 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm Bumper .................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 165 Nm (121 lb ft)
Shock Absorber to Control Arm Bolts .................... 27 Nm (20 lb ft)
Shock Absorber Upper Nut .................... 11 Nm (100 lb in)
Splash Shield to Steering Knuckle Bolts .................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft)
Stabilizer Bar Bracket to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 33 Nm (24 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Outer Tie Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts .................... 24 Nm (18 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 100 Nm (74 lb ft)
Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 190 Nm (140 lb ft)
Adjuster Tube Clamp Nut .................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Frame Nut .................... 99 Nm (73 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Steering Gear Nut .................... 250 Nm (184 ft. lbs.)
Relay Rod to Re Rod Nut .................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Frame Bracket Nut .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)

this was copied off of the following link. should be same torque requirments-
this is off a 2004 manual,which should be real close if not exact

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel> and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp> bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

got it from here -

Tie rod end torque spec DodgeTalk Dodge Car Forums Dodge Truck Forums and...

It's an easy but physically demanding if you do not have a pneumatic set of tools. The specialty tools you will first have to get your hands on are a Tie Rod remover. otherwise know as a (pickle fork). There are two sizes of these large for ball joint removal and small for Tie rod removal. Looks like a big 2 pronged fork. The next Tool is a Pitman arm remover. Usually you can rent or barrow them from your local auto parts store. Drive your blazer up on to a set of repair ramps. Block the rear tires.The bolt to the center link from the pitman arm has a crown nut on it with a cotter pin going threw it. Remove the cotter pin.and remove the crown nut. Then with the Pickle fork and a 5 lb. sledge hammer. place the pickle fork between the center link and the pitman arm bolt. Give the end of the Pickle fork as many good blows on the other end as it takes for the center link to release from the pitman arm. Once that is done take a break I know you'll need it. Next is the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft. Hope you can get your hands on a good breaker bar or an impact wrench and a socket large enough for the steering gear shaft nut. Remove the nut. Then place the Pitman arm removal tool between the pitman arm and the steering gear housing. Start tightening the threaded rod the remover up against the shaft. It is hard as hell to remove because pitman arms rarely go bad. It's usually the center link that fails.It will take a lot of strength to remove and you may want to use a little penetrating lube on it. Once you get that off you may want to replace the steering gear shaft seal as well. Otherwise just reverse the removal steps. The shaft is notched and so is the pitman are make sure they line up. then Torque to spec.s If you plan on keeping the blazer get a repair manual from your auto parts store. It will help you put a great deal.

Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs

pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

Unsure as to what you are calling the King nut but here are the torque specs for your front end.

Steering Gear-To-Cradle Bolt...........135 ft pnds
Steering Gear-To-Crossmember Bolt (Dakota 2 WD)..........190 ft pnds
Suspension Cradle Plate To-Cradle Attaching Bolt..............123 ft pnds
Tie Rod End-To-Steering Knuckle Nut Dakota (2WD) .............65 ft pnds
Tie Rod Lock Nut.....................55 ft pnds